Fruit is not an ingredient, it is an infinite universe of potential: fresh or dried, cooked or candied, summery or autumnal, it embraces a boundless range of colours, flavours and sensations. Delicious as it is, fruit becomes truly divine in cakes and desserts. Forget, just for a moment, apple pie, plum tart, raspberry jam and any other traditional recipe, jealously guarded by our grandmothers and handed down from one generation to the next. We like to experiment, break with culinary routine, especially now that Expo has “brought home” the gastronomic culture of over 140 countries.
Here is what happens then on the pages of Sweet Journal when fruit meets baking: an ambassador chef from Expo treats us to a recipe from his last book; another, totally aware of waste, teaches us how to salvage overripe fruit with a cake. A culinary archaeological expert digs out a recipe for us from 1938, invented by the head chef of King Victor Emmanuel III. The classic tiramisu is given a makeover by a famous blogger, in an exotic sweet that scents the summer and the best master pastry chefs reveal their creations to us. And then we set out on a journey discovering tropical fruit, unknown flavours and surprising desserts and cakes, into the Expo pavilions in a search for the best dishes. Turn the page and come with us to once again savour sweetness from all over the world.
When Davide Oldani opened D’O just outside
Milan in 2003, he changed the rules of
haute cuisine, writing a new page in the
history of gourmet food. In the year when
the world is undertaking to “feed the planet”
thanks to Expo, this starred chef is going
to open a new restaurant and relaunches the
challenge for cooking based on accessible goodness,
functional beauty and refined essentiality.
You are one of the ambassador chefs for Expo, dedicated to the theme “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”. When talking about food, what do you see as the challenge of the future?
Our challenge, and that of Expo, is to raise the awareness of a growing number of people about food and reducing waste, to spread the culture of a correct diet and make sure that everyone has access to adequate nourishment.
One of the focal points of this POP cooking that you have invented is combining high quality and accessibility. How can we make haute cuisine accessible?
First of all, we need to focus on the seasonality of products and use fresh raw materials. This is the only way to make top-level cooking accessible in terms of price. This is the path that I have followed from the start and today this trend is spreading fast.
29 April sees publication of your latest book, POP FOOD Non regional Italian cuisine. What is non regional cuisine?
I don’t mean “non” in a negative sense. With this book I want to enhance good Italian cooking, prioritising quality ingredients over recipes. We must first of all protect local products, from Tropea onions to Neapolitan anchovies, from Sardinian fish roe to musetto sausage from Udine. The recipes are not written in stone - anyone can change them to suit personal taste. When we make pesto, for example, it doesn’t matter if we use olive oil or butter, the essential ingredient is the basil.
What role does dessert play in your kitchen?
Dessert is the finale to a harmonious menu. It has a fundamental role, just like all the other courses. I love to find a balance of contrasts in the kitchen. This means that there is something sweet in all my savoury dishes and a hint of saltiness in all my desserts. It is nice to make desserts “as a cook” and not as a pastry chef: you have more freedom and can come up with unusual combinations. In this way, cooking becomes circular and a completely new experience.
“It will be a bit
like coming to my
house for dinner”
After the summer you will be opening the new D’O restaurant in Cornaredo in the province of Milan: a sneak preview?
This new D’O will further underline my “POP” philosophy, a mixture of friendliness, welcome and, most importantly, good cooking. The restaurant is an old Milan home, with a big kitchen, dining room, lounge, veranda, parlour, study and cellar. The architecture, design and furnishings are inspired by the seventies, when I grew up. It will be a bit like coming to my house for dinner.
Mille s-foglie with apple, meringue,
seed crackers, panettone and D’O spices
Fruit plays a leading role in Davide Oldani’s kitchen. In this recipe, taken from his latest book, the starred chef has come up with a «tiny portion of sweetness, the perfect end to a meal».
Mille s-foglie with apple, meringue, seed crackers, panettone and D’O spices
Ingredients (for 4 people)
For the seed cracker layers
125 g Molino Pasini flour
100 g warm water
35 ml Carli extra virgin olive oil
3 g fine salt
1 g fresh brewer’s yeast
1 g chemical raising agent
4 g black and white sesame seeds
4 g linseeds
4 g poppy seeds
4 g sunflower seeds
For the meringue layers
100 g egg whites
62 g Eridania Zefiro sugar
62 g Eridania Velo icing sugar
For the sugar layers
150 g Eridania Tropical cane sugar
50 g almond flour
For the apple layers
1 green apple
100 g water
100 g Eridania Zefiro sugar
20 g lemon juice
For the filo pastry layers
100 g sheets of filo pastry
40 g melted butter
20 g Eridania Velo icing sugar
For the panettone layers
1/4 of frozen Tre Marie panettone without raisins or candied fruit
For the chocolate layers
200 g Ocoa Cacao Barry chocolate
For the dark ganache
150 g Ocoa Cacao Barry chocolate
12 g glucose
20 g butter
1 g Maldon salt
2 g whole spices: cardamom, star anise and cinnamon
For the garnish
2 g D’O spices: orange, lemon, cinnamon, vanilla, star anise, cloves, juniper berries
For the seed crackers layers
Dissolve the fresh brewer's yeast and the salt in the warm water, add the oil and then the flour sieved with the chemical raising agent, roll out on a 2 mm thick silpat (food-quality silicone mat covered in fibreglass), divide it into triangles with a toothpick, sprinkle with the seeds and bake at 190°C for 9 minutes.
For the meringue layers
Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks, gradually add the granulated sugar while whisking, followed by the icing sugar. Spread a 2 mm thick layer of meringue onto parchment and dry in an oven at 65°C for an hour and a half.
For the sugar layers
Caramelise the cane sugar, take off the heat and add the almond flour. Pour out onto a silpat and roll out using a rolling pin and a sheet of parchment until 2 mm thick.
For the apple layers
Cut the apple into 2 mm thick slices, make a syrup with the sugar and the water. When it boils, take off the heat, add the lemon juice and the slices of apple, then drain the slices well and dry in the oven on a silpat at 65°C for 1 hour.
For the filo pastry layers
Brush the sheets of filo pastry with the melted butter, dust with the icing sugar and bake between two sheets of parchment and two oven sheets at 190°C for 7 minutes.
For the panettone layers
Use a meat slicer to cut the frozen panettone into 2 mm slices and bake between two sheets of parchment and two oven sheets at 190°C for 7 minutes.
For the chocolate layers
Temper the chocolate and spread it over an acetate sheet. When cold, cut using the tip of a warmed knife.
For the dark ganache
Bring the cream to the boil with the glucose and the spices, filter and pour into the chocolate with the butter in pieces. Stir and cool the mixture, whip it and serve with the Maldon salt.
For the garnish
Pipe the ganache onto a flat plate using an icing bag. Arrange the various layers haphazardly on the plate, gluing them together with the ganache. Dust with the D’O spices.
In his recently published book, Davide Oldani takes us into hitherto uncharted territory: non regional Italian cuisine.
No, not an error, just as good a way as any of saying that tradition is not everything. Make way for creativity in the kitchen; what is important is that ingredients are seasonal and best quality. The other new idea here is that the recipes are given in both Italian and English.
RICE AND SAFFRON:
POP cuisine by Davide Oldani has reached right inside Expo: right opposite Pavilion Zero the Riso e Zafferano kiosk is waiting to welcome visitors.
Here this star chef makes three sweet dishes and three savoury ones using Milan’s ingredients par excellence: rice, saffron and panettone.
The most classic of Italian desserts in an unusual summer version: fruit tiramisu with almond sponge and yogurt and mascarpone cream. Cool and light, it is ideal for afternoon tea on a flower-filled patio.
by Emanuele Patrini
Ingredients (for 4/6 people)
For the sponge cake
150 g cane sugar
100 g plain flour
50 g almond flour
15 g potato starch
For the syrup
1 large papaya
50 g cane sugar
½ glass of white wine
For the cream
3 egg yolks
125 g mascarpone
340 g Greek yogurt
100g cane sugar
50 g water
1 sheet of gelatine
50 g icing sugar
Work the eggs with the sugar in a planetary beater, or with an electric whisk, for about 15 minutes. Mix the two flours with the potato starch, add to the egg and sugar mixture and stir well. Pour the mixture into two parchment-lined Swiss roll tins, giving a layer about 1 cm thick and bake at 200°C in a pre-heated oven for 10/12 minutes. Take out of the oven and leave to cool on a cold surface. Once cold, use a biscuit cutter to make 16 or 24 rounds about 5/6 cm in diameter. Or you can break up the sponge with your hands.
Peel and cube the papaya and mangos. Put into a low, wide pan with the sugar and wine. Cook over a high heat with the lid on for 5 minutes. Take out the fruit and put onto a plate. Dilute the fruit juice with two dessertspoons of water and use it to soak the sponge.
Work the mascarpone with a spatula to soften it, add it to the Greek yogurt and put in the fridge.. Put the sheet of gelatine into a bowl of cold water. Dissolve the sugar with the water and heat to 121°C. Meanwhile, work the egg yolks with the planetary beater (or an electric whisk). Once the sugar has dissolved, add it to the yolks and continue to beat the mixture until the sugar has cooled. Add 2 dessertspoons of the syrup and then fold in the mascarpone and yogurt cream with a bowl scraper. Dissolve the gelatine in 1 dessertspoon of hot water and pour into the cream. Stir and put into the fridge for at least 15 minutes.
Assemble the tiramisu
Put the tiramisu together in a glass or jar. Put a spoonful of cream on the bottom, a round of syrup-soaked sponge, add 2/3 spoonfuls of cream, a layer of fruit, then sponge and continue to alternate layers. Top with the fresh fruit.
80 delicious healthy recipes ready in 20 minutes
How to reconcile a frenetic metropolitan lifestyle
with good, healthy cooking?
In this book, Emanuele Patrini gives 80 “metropolitan” recipes to make in just 20 minutes: from breakfast to dinner, via smoothies and desserts. Especially for all those who live in the city and work too much but like to eat well. (Available in Italian only)
There are red roses and snow-white lilies, variegated dahlias and refined orchids: cakes by Rita D’Ascenzo are like gardens in bloom.
In her cakes we find all the freshness of springtime and the dazzling light of summer, the melancholy of autumn and clearness of winter. Sugar paste makes every bud immortal.
Her floral creations took Rita D’Ascenzo to victory at Cake International 2014 in Manchester and Birmingham, one of the most important international cake design competitions, and saw her become a member of the Excellence Team of the Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate. A result achieved after years of specialisation courses and study of the raw materials: «Cake design is fashionable, but professionalism is fundamental. With no room for improvisation».
Decoration is an art halfway between baking and sculpture. The result of careful observation of nature it calls for technique and creativity, precision and romance.
Today Rita holds courses in Italy and abroad, teaching pastry chefs and aficionados how to turn their cakes into unique creations. Her number one rule? «The cakes must be good, not just beautiful. It is essential to make excellent creams for the filling, the base and cementing of the cake». When it comes to decorating, it is better to focus on «simplicity and elegance, avoiding excesses».
In October, Rita will be taking her iced gardens to Host at Fiera Milano with the Federation of Pastry, while she awaits her next international challenge: the Cake Master Magazine Awards, on 7 November 2015 in Birmingham.
Franco Aliberti, born in 1985, has
set a new trend: zero-waste cooking
(and baking). After training beside the
greatest international chefs, a year ago
he chose to follow his grandmothers’ motto of
“Nothing must be thrown away” and opened
Èvviva. In this laboratory- restaurant waste
is turned into gourmet recipes, old furnishings
out of the attic become design pieces and
young cooks learn to respect raw materials
and use them right down to the last peel.
Your experience started in starred kitchens, from Alain Ducasse in Paris to Gualtiero Marchesi, from the Alajmo’s Calandre to the Osteria Francescana belonging to Massimo Bottura. Are great chefs careful about waste?
For some of the chefs I have worked with, avoiding waste is a value learnt at home, in other kitchens however I have seen an exorbitant amount of waste and this is one of the reasons why I decided to open somewhere of my own. I am personally convinced that haute cuisine should be prepared with plain ingredients. Anyone can cook top-end dishes with lobster and caviar.
How did the idea of the zero-waste restaurant come about?
I come from a family of country folk, who gave me important values, such as respect for the raw material that nature offers us. In our grandmothers’ kitchens everything was used, it was a crime to throw anything away. The restaurant project came about thanks to my meeting Andrea Muccioli (ex-administrator of the San Patrignano rehab community, where Aliberti ran the restaurant, -Ed.).
So, a year ago you opened Èvviva in Riccione, in the old laundry at the Grand Hotel. Tell us about this adventure.
Èvviva transmits positivity: we make people understand that many of the things we throw away can be reused in the best of ways. With us, everything that is usually considered waste is transformed and reused in the restaurant, bar or pastry shop. This philosophy goes beyond the kitchen: in the restaurant, we salvage the widest range of furnishings and articles, from thirties chairs to Singer tables. And everything is up for sale.
Èvviva is also a cookery school. How do you teach the anti-waste philosophy?
You need to look at the raw material through different eyes, considering its substance not its appearance. Take the tomato, for example. In the kitchen we normally use just the pulp and the juice, whereas we find a way to also use the seeds and skin. You have to be curious, open your mind up to new opportunities. Then you need to study and keep trying - there are no coded recipes, everything must be experimented.
How important is the choice of ingredients in your restaurant?
It is fundamental to have first choice products. This is why we only select the highest quality of artisan raw materials, we seek out farmers who use natural production techniques. Our wines are all biodynamic. We must be consistent with the message we want to give.
How much does zero-waste cuisine cost?
Prices at Èvviva are very competitive. We have three tasting menus: four courses for €29, five for €39 and seven for €46.
You started your career as a pastry chef, then you became a chef. Are baking and cooking two complementary worlds?
I always say that I was born a pastry chef and will die with a sweet heart. Coming to cooking after experience as a pastry chef changes many things: science, rules and chemistry are important in baking and these merge with the instinctiveness of the cook, resulting in something new.
Even baking can be zero-waste. Here is one of Franco Aliberti’s sweet recipes for when
bananas get a bit too ripe, their skin blackens and their pulp goes soft.
Instead of throwing them - make this cake. An idea that is simple, delicious and,
most importantly, anti-waste.
cake alle banane
250 g banana pulp (3 bananas)
150 g cane sugar
125 g whole milk
60 g butter
1 whole egg
250 g plain flour
12 g baking powder
3 cardamom pods
Cook the whole bananas in the oven at 90°C for about 30 minutes. This pasteurises the pulp, meaning it stays soft and perfectly ripe, no longer with that typical mushy effect.
Heat the milk with the sugar and the cardamom pods. Cool and filter. Blitz the bananas with the sugar and milk. Add the eggs, the butter, melted and cooled a little, followed by the flour, sieved together with the baking powder. Stir quickly, add a pinch of salt. Pour the mixture into a square cake tin to a height of 3 cm. Bake at 170°C for about 25 minutes until cooked through.
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The Rotolo di Guerra or War Roll appeared for the first time in La Cucina Italiana
in January 1938: it was written by Amedeo Pettini, esteemed head chef of King
Victor Emmanuel III and a highly influential character on the culinary culture
of the period. The name of this cake is perhaps due to its shape, which possibly
looks like a cannon. The recipe was dug up (and prepared) for us by Samanta
Cornaviera, an expert in culinary archaeology, who in her blog Massaie Moderne
rediscovers flavours from mid-twentieth-century Italian cooking.
500 gr di farina
500 g flour
1 sachet of dried brewer's yeast or 1/2 a cube of fresh
100 g butter
250 g sugar
3 “fingers" of milk
600 g rennet or other cooking apples
grated lemon zest
1 small glass of rum
another 100 g sugar
less than a teaspoon of salt
Knead together the flour, butter, 1 egg, 150 g of sugar, yeast and salt. Rest the dough or half an hour, then roll out lengthwise to one centimetre thick.
Peel and grate the apples and put to cook in a saucepan with the rum, lemon zest and 100 g of sugar. As soon as it boils, take off the heat, leave to cool and spread over the dough, placed on a sheet of parchment to make it easier to roll. Roll up the dough and brush the roll with egg or milk, put on a baking sheet and back at 180°C for about half an hour. Take out of the oven, cool and serve.
Fruit in syrup, jam, preserve, candied fruit, dried fruit: all variations on a theme of the same
ingredient, fruit, which transforms to become the main player in a thousand recipes. For tasting,
for keeping. And who spares a thought for the humble container?
The jar is an understated actor in
an object with perfect, timeless design.
Each to his own
The jar is a universal object - we all have at least a couple shoved in the bottom of a cupboard, lined up on show on shelves or stacked in the dark of the pantry. Whether new or recycled, empty or full, they sit there patiently, ready to start a new life or to take us back in time. But while the function is the same, shapes vary a great deal: tall and narrow, round, multi-faceted, pot-bellied, hermetically sealed, with a plastic seal, wooden or cork top. Each of us has a favourite, the one with perfect size, special closure, a shape pleasing to the touch or eye and this becomes “our” quintessential jar.
The art of preserving
We live in an age of immediacy and speed, marked by the rhythm of fast, frozen and ready-to-use food. Finding the time and the desire to stop a moment and stone plums to make jam, to dry grapes to make raisins for biscuits baked in the winter or candy orange peel and cubes of ginger is difficult, almost impossible. And yet we experience untold pleasure when we taste preserves we or our loved ones have made. That jar stored carefully in the pantry allows us to pre-savour the moment we will open it, releasing fragrances and flavours that belong to another season. Jams that taste of sunshine, dried apricots, sweet and soft, figs, peaches in their syrup.
Jar - noun, m
Origin 16th Century:
from Old French jarre,
from Old Provençal jarra,
from Arabic jarrah,
large earthen vessel
A timeless object
The jar has a special relationship with time, in our imagination it is something out of time yet still on-trend. The fruit is chosen carefully, processed and eaten on different occasions, often far apart. The slowness of the preparation is an emblem of the patience of grandmothers and mothers, of a time in the past when everything was “handmade”. Even the recipes, scrupulously followed to fill these containers, have distant origins in time and space - they descend directly from the Arabian, Chinese or Mediterranean culture. The chance to enjoy preserved fruit all year round is today and example of sustainability and respect for seasons, put to hard task by mass production and globalisation.
by Claudia Biondini*
Biting into a mango was one of my most unforgettable experiences in Brazil.
Tropical fruit has no rivals the world over for variety, beauty and goodness. For us Europeans its flavour is quite simply overwhelming, an unusual, enticing mix of flavours that we feel we have already tasted elsewhere, even if we could not say where nor when.
I have travelled at length in Latin America, looking for new culinary adventures. For a while I lived in Argentina and Brazil and this is where I decided that I would devote my life to my greatest passion - cooking. Together with memories of those places, I brought back to Italy with me a handful of recipes and many hitherto unknown ingredients.
Baking in Latin America is basically a celebration of sweetness. Colourful, luscious, showy - their cakes and desserts reflect the warmth of the locals. Compared to their European counterparts, they also contain more fat, but I can assure you that they are worth it. Fruit is what makes these creations special and unique and this is why I have chosen three exotic fruits and three sweet recipes to tell the tale of my journey.
*Claudia Biondini is a Chef prêt-à-porter, food stylist and culinary writer. “Ti cucino in mezz’ora” (30-minute recipes) (Cairo) is her latest recipe book.
Tarta de queso chirimoya e lime Colombia
Mark Twain called chirimoya “the most delicious fruit known to man”. Native to Colombia, Ecuador and Bolovia, the chirimoya tastes like a cross between a pear, a banana and a pineapple, with a hint of sharp sweetness.It is anti-oxidant and rich in potassium and vitamin C. Thanks to its smooth creamy consistency, it is perfect for making mousses, cakes, creams and milkshakes. Be sure to take the seeds out carefully one by one, however.
Tarta de queso chirimoya e lime
Ingredients (for 4 people)
200 g white cane sugar
250 g ricotta
200 g spreadable soft cheese
zest of a lime
juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 teaspoon of vanilla powder
Preheat a fan oven to 175°C.
Fit a circle of parchment into a well-greased hinged cake tin so that the paper sits perfectly.
Peel the two chirimoyas and carefully remove all their seeds. Blitz to a purée together with the squeezed lime juice.
Whisk the sugar with the eggs.
Add the ricotta, cheese, lime zest (essential for enhancing the flavour of this recipe) and the vanilla, to give a smooth cream.Pour it all into the cake tin. Bake for about 45 minutes, turn off the oven and wait 10 minutes before opening. Leave the cake to cool in the oven with the door open just a crack. This stops it from sinking.
NB: Lime is an excellent alternative to lemon for sweet and savoury dishes because it is not as sour and therefore more versatile and delicate. It adds an exotic touch to any recipe.
Açai na tigela Brasile
The açai berry (pronounced “aˌsaˈi”) is one of the most nutritious fruits in the whole of the Amazon forest. Very rich in anthocyanin (anti-oxidant found in purple and dark red fruit), proteins, fatty acids, fibre, vitamins and minerals, this berry is becoming increasingly popular in Italy, especially as a food supplement. Extremely delicate and perishable, the berries are frozen and supplied in packs ready to purée.
Not everyone knows, however, that açaican be used to make a delicious sweet treat: an energising dessert that is eaten at any time of day in Brazil, but especially at breakfast. It is good because it is not too sweet yet nourishing and healthy. It is not a milkshake, an ice cream or a fruit salad… It is açai na tigela! You either love or hate açai, but it is an absolute must-try experience.
açai na tigela
Ingredients (for 4 people)
4 x 200 g packs of frozen açai
acacia honey or guarana juice
Take the açai out of the freezer 10 minutes before starting the recipe, so that they soften slightly and make the process easier. Peel and slice the banana, save two sliced bananas for garnishing.
Put açai in the bottom of the mixer, followed by the bananas, add 4 dessertspoons of acacia honey, or guarana juice if a spicier, more decisive flavour is preferred. Blitz until the ingredients are smoothly mixed.
Pour this creamy mixture into 4 ice-cream goblets, together with the muesli and bananas. Serve immediately!
Avocado, habanero and cocoa mousse Messico
Mexico is a totally magical country: the cooking here is very imaginative and full of intense, seductive aromas.The avocado, the ancient fruit native to Mexico, already being eaten by the Aztecs 8000 years ago, is the best expression of the country’s highly imaginative cultural wealth. Its name comes from the word ahuacati or “fruit of love”, because it was thought to have aphrodisiac properties. The avocado is a concentrate of energy. It is rich in vitamin A and B, in minerals such as magnesium, potassium and phosphorus and it is the fruit with the highest protein content. There are numerous varieties of avocado and a little experience is needed to recognise a good one: consistency is essential, as is the colour of the skin. Here you will need a very ripe fruit, but make sure it is not too dark inside. This recipe, inspired by Mexico, is one of my own invention and it is a nutritious, healthy dessert, with no milk, eggs, sugar or artificial flour. It is an excellent invigorating restorative as it contains cocoa, habanero and dates. A real magical potion that will take you to distant lands.
Avocado, habanero and cocoa mousse
Ingredients (for 4 people)
3 ripe avocados
12 dessertspoons of cocoa powder
150 g medjool dates
1 habanero or fresh chili pepper
a pinch of salt
almond flakes to garnish
Take the stones out of the dates and cut into small pieces. Peel the avocado and cut into small pieces.
Blitz the avocado with the dates in a mixer until well mixed. Add the cocoa and a pinch of habanero or chili pepper (to suit personal taste) and blitz again until the mixture is smooth, with an even consistency and colour. Add a pinch of salt to enhance the taste of the chocolate.
Serve immediately, before the avocado oxidises, causing it to lose its flavour and nutritional qualities. If liked, garnish with toasted almond flake
Exotic fruit can be found just about everywhere in Italy now, although you must be careful with the quality (not always top) and the price, at times excessive. You will find lots of stalls selling South American products in markets , especially those in big cities. In Milan, I go to the market along the Darsena and speak Spanish to knock the price down -find a tactic that works well for you! As an alternative you can go to your local fruit and veg shop, but watch out for “jewellery shop” prices. Exotic fruit can also be found in the best-stocked supermarkets. If (as is often the case) you can only find very unripe fruit, put it to ripen in a paper bag with some ripe apples, in a sunny or warm place.
The Charlotte is a delicious, elegant, very spectacular cake.
It can be made with different kinds of fruit depending on the season or
inspiration of the moment and calls for a little skill. In this recipe,
pastry chef Antonio Barba gives us a step-by-step explanation of how
to make the perfect Dark chocolate and raspberry Charlotte,
one of his favourite cakes.
Dark chocolate and raspberry charlotte
For the sponge
300 g sugar
360 g eggs
2 vanilla pods
grated zest of 2 lemons
200 g egg yolks
200 g weak plain flour
200 g potato starch
For the boudoir biscuits
190 g egg yolks
120 g sugar
1 vanilla pod
380 g egg whites
95 g sugar
300 g plain flour
65 g potato starch
For the dark chocolate Bavarian cream
30 g rice starch
200 g egg yolks
200 g sugar
200 g cream
1 vanilla pod
500 g milk
10 g gelatine
300 g 60% dark chocolate
600 g unsweetened whipped cream
For the rum
200 g water
For the sponge - Use a planetary beater to mix the sugar, eggs, vanilla pods and grated lemon zest, adding the egg yolks a little at a time. Sieve the flour with the starch and gently fold in. Bake at 190°C with the valve open for 18-20 minutes in traditional 4 cm charlotte moulds.
For the boudoir biscuits - Use a planetary beater to mix the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla pods. Whisk the egg whites with the sugar until stiff and glossy, then delicately fold the two mixtures together. Sieve in and mix the flour and starch. Use an icing bag with a 10 mm diameter nozzle to make fingers of the mixture, each one attached to the next, sprinkle lightly with granulated and icing sugar before baking at 210-220°C with the valve open for 10-12 minutes.
For the dark chocolate Bavarian cream - Mix the egg yolks, sugar and rice starch together; boil the milk with the cream and the vanilla pods. Incorporate the two mixtures, bring to nearly to the boil (in other words to a temperature of about 80°C)*: add in the gelatine, previously softened in cold water, and finally add the dark chocolate. When the mixture has cooled to a temperature of 30-32°C, stir in the glossy whipped cream.
For the rum – Boil the water and sugar, cool and add the rum.
Assemble the cake – Arrange the biscuits around the edge of a stainless steel cake ring and the sponge soaked in vanilla and rum on the bottom. Spread the dark chocolate cream on the sponge and cover with raspberries. Place another layer of soaked sponge on top of the cream and spread it with the dark chocolate cream. Put into the blast chiller. To decorate the cake, cover it with raspberries and spray with the neutral gelatine (this seals the air out of cakes and desserts, stopping fruit from oxidising and making them glossy and brilliant, -Ed.) Once the cake has cooled, pour over the rum.
*When a kitchen thermometer was not available, they used to check that the cream was cooked by coating the back of a wooden spoon with it and blowing on it. If it formed wrinkles similar to rose petals the cream was ready.
When he was a little boy, Antonio would watch his grandfather and father at work in the family’s pastry shop and bakery, Bar Lucia in Salice Salentino in the province of Lecce and he used to enjoy making cakes for fun. At the age of fourteen he realised that his dream job was “to amaze people with a cake”. Today, Antonio Barba runs the family pastry shop, he is a delegate for the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate, for the provinces of Lecce and Brindisi and he is also an instructor at the Sweetest School. In October, he will be training the Cuban cake design team for the World Patisserie Championships at Host, at Fiera Milano.
Macaroons are delicious cakes of French origin that have won over the
world of international baking with their sweetness and chic appearance.
They are easier to make than most people think, but the procedure must
be followed to the letter. Here is pastry chef Francesco Aquilino’s recipe,
who has chosen to make macaroons with a coconut filling for Sweet Journal.
Macarons de Paris with coconut
Ingredients (for about 200 macaroons)
For the first mixture
500 gr t.p.t. (“tant pour tant”)*
90 gr egg whites
For the second mixture
250 g granulated sugar
70 gr water
100 gr egg whites
For the coconut ganache
500 gr cream
100 gr desiccated coconut
500 gr white chocolate
*T.p.t. is a mixture of equal parts of icing sugar and almond flour. It can be bought ready to use but it can also be made easily at home, combining equal amounts of the two ingredients.
Sieve the t.p.t. and add the egg whites. Mix to give a smooth consistency
In a small pan, heat the water and sugar to 117°C (test with a sugar thermometer), whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks and pour the sugar syrup over them. When the second mixture has cooled, fold gently into the first.
Shape the macaroons
Use a sac à poche to make lots of “buttons” with the mixture and dust them with the coconut. Leave at room temperature for 30 minutes, then bake at 168°C in a fan oven (valve opened). Cool the macaroons slightly in a blast chiller.
Boil the cream in a microwave with the coconut for the ganache. Melt the chocolate, pour the cream and coconut mixture onto it and stir well. Leave to cool
Assemble the macaroons
Pierce the macaroons with a small knife and fill with a generous amount of the cooled ganache. Pinch gently to seal. Put back in the blast chiller.
Francesco Aquilino fell in love with cooking and baking at the age of just 13. A young talent, he had important work experiences in Italy and abroad, working with great chefs and embracing the Slow Food philosophy. Today he is the Puglia regional delegate for the Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate, instructor at the Professional Pastry & Cake Design School and consultant for many companies in the sector. In September 2014, Francesco Aquilino won the gold medal at the International Carving Trophy in Innsbruck, in the “artistic sugar” category. He has a pastry shop in Troia, in the province of Foggia.
This is a dessert that combines ingredients from our native
Italy with tropical fruit: pistachio meets mango and Gargano
lemon partners the papaya in a surprising mix of flavours.
This original recipe from pastry chef Luciano Farmini will
take you elsewhere in a place of sweet delight.
oltre - beyond
For the light pistachio biscuit:
300 g whole eggs
150 g granulated sugar
200 g ground almonds
2 g lemon zest
1 g salt
100 g 100% pistachio paste
50 g milk
7.5 g flour
190 g free-range egg whites
100 g sugar
Per la gelatina di mango
125 g mango
2 g gelatine
15 g granulated sugar
For the papaya mousse
250 g papaya pulp
60 g Italian meringue (egg whites and sugar)
4 g gelatine
110 g whipped fresh cream
For the brittle
75 g water
60 g glucose syrup
250 g granulated sugar
150 almond flakes (warm)
25 g butter
100 g granulated sugar
3 g pectin
100 g water
80 g puréed fresh papaya
250 g glucose syrup
5 g femminiello lemon from Gargano
For the pistachio biscuit – Whisk together the eggs, sugar, ground almonds, lemon zest and salt. Mix together the milk and the pistachio paste and then stir in the flour. Finally, whisk the egg whites and the sugar and fold into the mixture, to give a smooth consistency.
For the mango gelatine – Combine the mango pulp and sugar and heat, then add the dissolved gelatine.
For the Papaya mousse – Heat the papaya pulp and stir in the dissolved gelatine, then add the Italian meringue and the whipped cream.
For the brittle – Put the water, glucose syrup and sugar into a small pan and heat to 170°C. Take off the heat and add the ground almonds and butter and stir until the butter has completely melted.
For the icing – Mix the sugar with the pectin and add the water and the papaya; bring to the boil and add the glucose. Finally, add the lemon juice and put into the fridge to cool.
Assemble the dessert – Use a 20 cm diameter, 2 cm tall circular mould: line with acetate paper, put a layer of light pistachio biscuit on the bottom followed by a layer of almond brittle. Then pour in the mango gelatine and add another layer of the biscuit. Put it all into the blast chiller. Now take a larger circular mould (24 cm in diameter, 4/5 cm tall), line with acetate paper and pour in the papaya mousse, no higher than the halfway mark. At this point turn out the previously chilled cake and place it onto the papaya mousse. Cover it all with the mousse and put back into the blast chiller for at least 2 hours. Turn out, ice and decorate as liked.
Luciano Farmini is of the opinion that the pastry chef's job is similar to that of an artisan "learning his trade in the workshop". This was how it was for him, as a boy learning the art of baking, inspired by the great maestros. Creations by Farmini, a pastry chef belonging to the Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate, can be tasted at Fulgaro, an ancient baker’s since 1890 in San Marco in Lamis, in the province of Foggia.
DolceFrutta Bakery Selezione is a line of semi-candied fruit made strictly from 70% fresh fruit, cold processed to preserve all the fragrance and flavour of the raw material. Thanks to is low sugar content, DolceFrutta Bakery has a fresh taste, natural colour and a soft consistency unaltered by freezing.
For almost a century, Cesarin has worked alongside master pastry chefs, supplying them with the best products for their wonderful sweet creations. Founded in Verona in 1920 and headed by Alberto Cesarin, this company has turned a family talent into a modern international business. A success based on research and innovation, commitment and passion, teamed with constant attention to small artisan companies of excellence.
Only the best fruits, harvested when perfectly ripe, are turned by Cesarin into semi-processed preparations for top-quality bakers and ice cream makers, using production methods in line with the most stringent standards in the food sector.
Fruit is the real main player of Cesarin products for bakers and the elite Selezione line expresses this to the full. It includes the outstanding TuttaFrutta semi-candied fruit range, which uses only fresh fruit, with no colorants or preservative, skilfully and patiently hand selected. Whereas, the FruitLine range of products for professional use supplies both artisan and semi-industrial bakeries with classics like candied fruit, black cherries and black cherry syrup, semi-processed baking and ice-cream preparations. New this year are Profumi d’Italia Selezione semi-processed fruit preparations, ready-to-use pastes made with autochthonous varieties of Italian citrus fruits, like Ciaculli late mandarins and lemons from the Amalfi coast; Ciokko Fruit Selezione stabilised fruit with low water activity for filling chocolate; Vegetali Selezione stabilised vegetables, ideal for adding flavour and taste to special bread.
Steeped in its juice, the fruit preserves all its flavour and qualities.
This is why DolceFrutta and the Cesarin lines of semi-processed fruit
preparations are ideal for a wide selection of sweet recipes,
like this delicious example from master pastry chef Gennaro Volpe.
Ricotta and Pear Mousse with DolceFrutta Bakery Selezione
Ingredients for 4 mousses weighing 1.2kg / 24cm in diameter
For the mousse
1 kg gr ricotta
400 g sugar
300 g confectioner’s custard
1 kg 35% fat cream whipped till glossy
20 g sheets of gelatine
500 g DolceFrutta Bakery Pear
For the hazelnut biscuit:
400 gr butter
400 gr sugar
400 gr flour
2 gr salt
400 gr roasted hazelnut flour
For the mousse
Dissolve the sheets of gelatine and add to the previously heated custard. In a separate bowl, whisk the ricotta and the sugar, then combine the two mixtures. Now add the cream and the DolceFrutta Bakery Pear and mix to give a smooth mousse.
For the hazelnut biscuit
In a bowl mix the butter, salt, sugar and the two kinds of flour. Refrigerate for 12 hours at 0/4°C. Roll out the pastry into a circle half a cm thick and 24 cm in diameter. Bake at 170°C for about 20 minutes.
Assemble the cake
Make the cake inside steel cake rings and place in a blast chiller. Dust with icing sugar before serving.
by Marina Manieristi
If we are not affected, at the very least we will have heard about them: food intolerances are a much-debated argument, as yet still little known, but for many a daily problem.
There can be many causes, genetic or due to an exaggerated response by the immune system (coeliac disease or gluten intolerance), enzyme deficiencies (lactose intolerance) or simply food overload.
Without realising it, today we in fact consume food on an everyday basis that in the past was only eaten sporadically. These are refined, elaborated, additive- and preservative-rich foods that for this reason are “not recognised” or “poorly tolerated” by our organism, for thousands of years used to consuming what nature provides. Refined food, with little nutrition value, without that is vitamins and minerals, the result of industrial production, calls for greater energy to metabolise it. The result is a surplus of toxins that are difficult to dispose of and the cause of migraines, skin rashes, chronic tiredness or gastroenteric problems.
Monotony is the mother of intolerances - suffice it to think how often we eat wheat. This cereal modified and with a much higher gluten content than normal, monopolises our tables. Spelt, the first cereal consumed by human beings, rye, barley and the various varieties of old wheat have become niche products, only recently reconsidered. If intolerances are the product of our age, a return to nature cannot but do us good.
Mother Earth gives us the right food at the right time and summer brings us fruit to freshen us. If we choose red varieties, we are benefitting from the properties of anthocyanins, anti-oedematogenic flavonoids that improve microcirculation. Extremely useful therefore in hot weather.
To combat food intolerances, let’s dust off a few simple old recipes. Only a few ingredients, low lipid content and fruit that is not only fresh but also oily. Walnuts, almonds and hazelnuts all contain oils, it’s true, but these are the “good ones”, so useful for our arteries. A good classic no-butter sponge can be made using spelt flour suitable for this kind of recipe because it is weak, with a low gluten content. Then strawberries, a cream made from almond milk and a hibiscus flower jelly make a light dessert that is also suitable for the dairy and wheat intolerant.
Strawberry and hibiscus flower jelly tart
For the sponge base
100 g spelt flour
100 g sugar
3 organic eggs
For the custard
300 g sugar-free almond milk
30 g spelt flour
3 egg yolks
90 g cane sugar
40-50 strawberries, if possible all the same size and not too big
a sachet of karkadé (Hibiscus Sabdariffa flowers)
2 sachets (2 x 13 g) of gelatine powder for tarts
5 dessertspoons of sugar
80 g almond flakes, half a glass of strawberry syrup (or pomegranate or other red fruit)
For the sponge
Separate the eggs and whisk the whites into firm peaks. In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks and the sugar, gradually sieving in the flour with a pinch of salt. Mix for a few minutes, then fold in the egg whites using a spatula (do this gently to retain the incorporated air). Use olive oil to grease a fairly deep (6-7 cm) hinged loaf tin (about 11 x 30 cm) and pour in the mixture. Bake at 170°C for 20 minutes in a fan oven, or 30-35 minutes in a static oven. The sponge should be golden, but pale..
For the custard
Make the custard by beating the egg yolks and sugar in a pan (the best is a round bottomed custard pan), then add the flour and a pinch of salt and stir. Slowly pour in the previously heated almond milk, taking care not to let lumps form and, continuing to stir with the whisk, cook over a bain-marie for about 7-8 minutes.
Assembling the cake
Take the sponge out of the tin, cut it in half with a knife and soak the base with the strawberry syrup diluted in 4-5 dessertspoons of water. Then spread half of the cooled custard (it should be nice and thick) and cover with the other half of the cake. At this point, put the cake back into the washed and dried loaf tin and close it again. Spread the remaining custard (apart from 4 or 5 dessertspoons) over the top, then arrange rows of strawberries, making sure they are all more or less the same height (if necessary cut their bottoms off).
For the hibiscus tea
Mix the gelatine powder and the sugar in a pan, add the contents of the hibiscus sachet with 400 g of water and stir with a whisk. Once it boils, cook for another minute, then take off the heat and leave to cool slightly. Finally, stir again with the whisk to remove any film that may have formed on the gelatine and pour it slowly and gently over the strawberries, covering them completely. Leave to cool for 10 minutes then put into the fridge for at least half an hour. When the gelatine is good and firm, very carefully take the sides off the tin. Spread the edges of the cake base with the remaining custard and cover with the almond flakes.
Fugar, leading producers of composite ingredients for baking and ice cream making,
has come up with an innovative, unique product: the Linea Ólvi, an ice-cream base
that has all the beneficial properties of olive oil, suitable for those with
food intolerances, vegans and all lovers of wellbeing.
Fugar Produzione S.p.A. is a benchmark name for the world’s best bakers and ice-cream makers: founded in Rimini in 1974, thanks to continual investment in technologies and specialist personnel, the company has always offered professionals in the sector of products in line with the times, fully respecting tradition and genuineness.
In the field of ice cream, Fugar has launched a true natural revolution: the Linea Ólvi, an ice-cream base that has all the beneficial properties of olive oil, the main ingredient in the Mediterranean diet. Ice creams made with Ólvi, the outcome of in-depth research in the Fugar R&D labs, contain no milk, gluten, or hydrogenated vegetable fats. This makes them suitable for the lactose-intolerant, but also for those following a vegan diet and, more in general, all those who embrace wellbeing.
The Linea Ólvi is the perfect partner for another innovative Fugar product: Nonna Lella, the only vegan hazelnut cocoa cream that contains only noble plant-origin, non-hydrogenated fats, with no milk, dairy or sucrose. Ideal for delicious ice creams, variegated products and toppings, Nonna Lella is also recommend for baked specialities. Fugar has received VeganOK product certification for the entire Linea Ólvi and for Nonna Lella: for the first time goodness means wellness.
The Linea Ólvi is the only mixture that lets you make good,
light artisan ice cream with flavour, creaminess and structure
that are just as good as traditional ice cream.A complete range
of products, some powdered, others liquid, ideal for making
delicious cream or fruit ice creams, thanks to simple recipes.
Ice cream with Ólvi
Ingredients (amounts given for one container of ice cream)
2600 g water
1100 gr Ólvi base (Fugar code 41475)
240 gr Ólvi base (Fugar code 41476)
400 gr 100% pure colour-free Pistacchio Smeraldo Sicilia paste (Fugar code 40706)
80 gr Frux (Fugar code 41481)
1000 gr water
1000 gr Ólvi base (Fugar code 41506)
120 gr Ólvi fruit (Fugar code 41507)
2000 gr strawberries
Variegated Nonna Lella banana
1000 gr water
1000 gr Ólvi base (Fugar code 41506)
120 gr Ólvi fruit (Fugar code 41507)
2000 gr bananas
a suitable amount of Nonna Lella (Fugar code 41519) – variegate in layers
For the Ólvi pistachio ice the temperature of the water must not be less than 55°C. For the Ólvi strawberry and banana ice cream, the temperature of the water must not be less than 40°C.
Use a professional immersion blender to force mix the ingredients.Then preferably rest the mixture for 4-6 hours before beating. This is not necessary with pasteurisation. We recommend using a beating programme specific for fruit. If a blast chiller is used, this must not exceed 3 minutes. Tests have shown that optimum serving cabinet temperature is -14°C. Please note that the use of ingredients with different maturing and quality levels may give variations in the structure and conservation of the ice cream in the cabinet.
Tartare of strawberries and feta on rye crostino with honey
Fruit is perfect for creating optical illusions. As in the case of this dessert, which tips the wink to an antipasto of tasty Piedmont Fassone beef tenderised with a knife but is actually made of strawberries, feta and honey. Sweet and unexpectedly pungent thanks to the feta, colourful and fresh. Perfect on the Fasano Ceramiche colour-drop plate you will find in Milan at Funky Table, 19 Via Santa Marta.
by The Foodorialist
Tartare of strawberries and feta on rye crostino with honey
Ingredients (for 4 people)
Half a punnet of strawberries
50 g feta
1 dessertspoon of cane sugar
a few drops of balsamic vinegar
2 slices of rye bread from a loaf
Clean and trim the strawberries and cut into fairly small pieces, toss in the sugar and balsamic vinegar. Use a round cutter to cut out 4 circles from the two slices of bread, toast them until crisp then brush the upper side with the honey.
At this point, use the cutter again to arrange the strawberry tartare on the crostini. The honey helps the fruit to stick to the bread. Gently remove the cutter, garnish with fresh mint and serve.
It all started with Peck, the mecca of Milanese gastronomy, over fifty years ago. Still a boy, Gino Brescia was earning his living as a chef. Passionate about design, he enjoyed himself carving fruit and vegetables to decorate his dishes. “They used to come from all over the world to see Peck’s spectacular windows”, he recalls. At the age of twenty he was already world champion in the art of carving, the first of a long series of international level awards: today, after 37 gold medals won over the last three years, he teaches his technique to chefs and bakers.
A unique opportunity for finding out all the tastiest dishes from around the world and the food and wine traditions of all the countries taking part.
Annalisa Cavaleri, journalist and food and wine critic, is responsible for the taste section of ExpoNet, the official Expo Milano 2015 magazine, for which she edits the feature "Il piatto del giorno di Expo" (The dish of the day at Expo). To Sweet Journal she revealed the best (and most interesting) desserts to try at the Universal Exposition.
by Annalisa Cavaleri
There are lots of possible cake and dessert moments at Expo Milano 2015. It is wonderful to walk through the pavilions and discover, in the one exhibition site, both more traditional and stranger, more particular food. It’s like a trip around the world of gastronomy in a single day.
Argentina Pavilion – Those who like their sweets “very sweet” can go to the Argentina Pavilion and try Panqueque de dulce de leche, a light pancake filled with a velvety cream made from milk and sugar that tastes vaguely like caramel. The heat of the pancake slightly melts the filling, which oozes gently out as soon as you rest your fork on it. Here there are also alfajores, two soft biscuits sandwiched together with a generous layer of dulce de leche, this time thicker and more compact. The final touch is a milk or dark chocolate coating, making it the favourite snack of Argentine children.
Switzerland Pavilion – A very voluptuous, feminine dessert is meringues with double Gruyère cream in the Switzerland Pavilion: two crisp meringues to dip into a soft double cream sauce. The meringue is very sweet and melts in the mouth, sweetening the cream, which has no sugar added. The perfect dessert for those who love the pure flavour of milk.
Colombia Pavilion – And finally, Colombia: in this country’s pavilion they make the best ever ice creams from passion fruit, blackberries and mangos, with more than 30 varieties of the latter in Colombia. They also make a must-try drink, less sweet, but with an incredible flavour: lulo juice, an exotic fruit with a flowery, fruity taste…I am sure it will amaze you!
To follow Annalisa Cavaleri’s feature on ExpoNet:
Around the world
in 100,000 recipes
Exploring the world through the aromas and flavours of its places, getting to know a people by tasting its traditional dishes, feeling amazement in front of an unknown ingredient. This is the dream of all gourmet travellers.
The Expo Worldrecipes website takes us on a virtual trip through a global recipe book. From recipes by the Expo ambassador chefs like Ernst Knam and Davide Oldani, to those by the most followed foodbloggers and keen cooks, the website has to date gathered over 60,000 dishes from more than two thousand sources and 80 countries and it continues to grow. You can “travel” among recipes from around the world, choosing just one ingredient, cocoa for example, or fruit, and then move from one country to the next, discovering different culinary traditions. The Expo Worldrecipes community is open to everyone. To take part with your recipe:
The Cocoa and Chocolate Cluster
The Expo Pavilion dedicated to cocoa and chocolate is a
must-visit for the sweet of tooth.
The Cocoa and Chocolate Cluster, managed by Eurochocolate (the Italian chocolate exhibition that has been held for 21 years in Perugia), covers 5500 square metres and takes visitors on a journey that from the cocoa plantation ends up with the finished, packaged chocolate.
The architecture of this pavilion looks like a forest, because it is inspired by the cocoa plantations in the world’s tropical and sub-tropical zones. Cameroon, Cuba, the Ivory Coast, Gabon, Ghana and São Tomé and Principe, are the six producer countries in this Cluster.
Every country tells its own traditions and history linked to the cultivation of the cocoa plant. Another not to be missed is the area dedicated to the Italian Chocolate Districts: Turin-Piedmont, Perugia-Umbria and Modica, the three areas that have marked the link of this country with the production of quality chocolate. Every day the Cocoa Cluster hosts events, show cooking, workshops and shows dedicated to this Food of the Gods. The calendar of events can be viewed on www.cocoachocolatecluster.org and on the Cocoa and Chocolate Cluster App, free to download for Android and iOS.
With Mathery Studio we can lay the whole table!
Banana Gelée Popsicle
This recipe copies the creation process of Fruit Wares in the kitchen: the banana skin will be the container for my gelée popsicle, a banana ice lolly.
Banana Gelée Popsicle
100 gr fresh peas
2 gr sheets of gelatine
20 gr icing sugar
To prepare our ice lolly empty the fruit and use the peel as a mold (you can also use oranges, lemons and apples). Centrifuges teach us that fruits and vegetables mix wonderfully well: so the sweetness of peas perfectly combines with banana.
Boil the peas in water and, when cooked, blitz them in a mixer. Push the mixture through a sieve to remove the skins. Mash the banana with a fork, reducing it to a pulp. Stir the two mixtures together in a bowl with the icing sugar. Stir it all with a whisk to avoid lumps. Meanwhile, put the gelatine to soak in cold water. Heat it in a bain-marie for a few minutes and, once the gelatine has dissolved, add to the banana and pea mixture. Cool and put in the fridge to rest for two hours (or one hour in the freezer if time is short). Have fun creating your popsicles, using the banana skin as a container.
A metropolitan meeting place
Pandenus is the place we would all like to have around the corner: welcoming and mouth-watering, whether it’s early morning with a newspaper and freshly baked croissants, lunchtime with delicious dishes, afternoon tea and a plethora of sweet delights, somewhere to enjoy an aperitif after work or a late night last stop for a drink before bedtime.
In the beginning, Pandenus (walnut bread in Milanese), was a tiny location tucked away in one of Milan’s back streets, the go-to place for a restricted circle of loyal customers, including a good few famous showbiz names, a couple of bizarre characters and locals. It was somewhere you came upon by chance or heard about by word of mouth. A jealously guarded address for its regulars, here you could buy fresh bread, meet for a coffee, a slice of cake and a chat with its younger owner. The original Pandenus, opened in 2007 by Filippo Lecardane, is still there. In the meantime, however, the name has become an institution in Milan, and three more have opened in strategic locations around the city. Each one has its own personality, but they all share a cheerful atmosphere with a hint of fashion, appealing design and a continual pursuit for top-quality ingredients. “The style of Pandenus is inspired by French bistros, but with a very Italian feel”, explains Filippo Lecardane, who has personally seen to the furnishings in all four places. “I have chosen simple materials, like wood, iron and concrete, to create a warm, welcoming atmosphere”. Each table is a unique piece in wood made by Controprogetto, four young designer-craftsmen who use recycled materials. Every carefully chosen detail helps to give a “homey feel”: from the flowers, always fresh, to the herbs in the outside area, from the background music to the cookery books on the shelves. Then there is the food - delicious.
There is always a speciality on offer, whatever the time of day: brioches, cakes, all different kinds of bread, lunchtime dishes, aperitifs, juiced fruits and vegetables and brunch. This “Milanese jewel” will shortly be arriving in London. And a Pandenus B&B is also in the pipeline.
T’A Milano Store&Bistrot
Elegance from yesteryear
The Alemagna brothers, Tancredi and Alberto, come from a family that has written the history of baking in Milan. Their passion is totally wrapped up in the T’A Milano Store&Bistrot, where tradition meets the entrepreneurial talent of the young generations.
This is where “old Milan”, elegant and somewhat austere, meets contemporary Milan - dynamic and innovative. We are at T’A Milano Store&Bistrot. Opened a year ago by Tancredi and Alberto Alemagna, next door to historic Palazzo Clerici, it has become a meeting place for locals (and not only) at any time of day. Pastry shop, cafeteria, bistro and cocktail bar, it offers a wide range of different delicious quality cuisine. The very best thing about T’A Milano is its cakes and pastries: backed by a centenary of tradition in the sector, the Alemagna brothers reserve special attention for chocolates and haute patisserie. Studio Vincenzo De Cotiis Architects was in charge of the interior design of T’A Milano, giving it a sixties feel, sober and refined, with marble walls and plastered walls, brass lamps and velvet chairs. The delights on offer at T’A Milano, sold in the store, come in packaging that boasts functional, pleasing, eco-friendly design: in April 2008, the Alemagna brothers won the “Best Quality Packaging Design” award, exactly 50 years after the Oscar of packaging was received by grandpa Alberto for his famous hat-box for panettone.
The four seasons
Valentina Raffaelli – Corraini Edizioni
Herbarium taste is a graphic project “to eat”, a herbarium of food divided into seasons. The fruits and vegetables are illustrated in simple, essential images and then sectioned, to reveal the precious nutritional resources they contain. Herbarium taste is neither a medical tome nor a boring lesson in healthy eating: it is a simple way of showing that there is something important in every fruit and vegetable and that we should, for our wellbeing, insert them all into our repertoire of recipes. Dual-language text in English and Italian.
Dolci con la frutta.
I quaderni di cucina
Artemisia Abbondanza - Vallardi Cucina
Cakes and desserts with fruit are the best way to end a meal with something delicious and gratifying, without falling off the diet wagon. This book, part of a wide notebook-style series and now available from Amazon as an eBook, is filled with tasty, fragrant, light recipes using all kinds of fruit, both fresh and dried. More unusual ones include grape pudding and Sicilian buccellato cake. Available in Italian only.
Kris Goegebeur – Lannoo Publishers
Apples, pears, cherries, plums, walnuts: every fruit has a multitude of aspects and offers infinite possibilities in kitchen. In this book, Kris Goegebeur, one of Belgium’s top pastry chefs, teaches us how to turn any kind of fruit into an exceptional dessert. Bernard Lahousse, food pairing expert, analyses each ingredient scientifically, suggesting refined new combinations for fruit with cakes and desserts. The book won the Best Book for Professionals & Pastry Sweets at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2013. In English.
Piatti senza frontiere
Francesca Cosentino – De Agostini
This book is a collection of recipes from all over the world that have today been “inherited” by Italian cuisine as well. A few sweet examples? Apple pie and pancakes. Francesca Cosentino, radio journalist and writer of the blog Ostriche, travels and cooks out of passion. In her book, we find not only simple tasty recipes, but also memories, travel notes and details about “other people’s food”, discovering gastronomic traditions, addresses, itineraries and ideas from distant lands. Available in Italian only.
On 1st May the Universal Exposition was inaugurated in Milan, with the theme “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”. Until 31 October, in an exhibition area of 1.1 million square metres, more than 140 countries and international organisers will be involved in events dedicated to the world of food. Over 20 million visitors are expected. For the duration of Expo, the city of Milan and the exhibition site will act as a stage for artistic and musical happenings, conventions, shows, creative workshops and exhibitions.
São Paulo (Brasil)
expo brasil chocolate 2015
Expo Brasil Chocolate is a fair entirely dedicated to the world of chocolate. This fair for both trade visitors and aficionados, is a chance to check out all the new ideas and products in the sector, from new production techniques to the most interesting business opportunities. It will also host events, exhibitions and workshops for chocoholics.
News from the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate
2015 FIPGC World Championships sponsored by Expo
EXPO will be sponsoring the World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate and the Cake Designers World Championship organised by the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate at Host Fiera Milano from 23 to 27 October 2015
2016 FIPGC Championships
Registration is open for the 2016 FIPGC Italian Pastry Ice-Cream Chocolate Championships, which will be held at the Fiera del Tirreno in Massa from 28 February to 2 March 2016. The competition qualifies for the “Italian Selection” for “The World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate FIPGC”. The winners will represent the FIPGC Italian Team, who will compete at the The World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate FIPGC at Host Fiera Milano 2017 (Download the official regulations 2016)
Registration is open for the 2016 FIPGC Italian Cake Designers Championships, which will be held at the Fiera del Tirreno in Massa from 28 February to 2 March 2016. The competition qualifies for the “Italian Selection” for the “Cake Designers World Championship FIPGC”. The winners will represent the FIPGC Italian Team, who will compete at the Cake Designers World Championship FIPGC at Host Fiera Milano 2017 (Download the official regulations 2016)
The birth of the Tradition & Love FIP project
This project aims to gather all possible news about typical cakes and desserts from every region and province in Italy, a heritage that must be adequately protected and enhanced. (See the project page)
Prizes and awards
Katia Malizia, Fip Lazio member, won the gold medal in the Cake Design Internationals in London. Marilù Giarè won two silver medals in the same competition.
Tiziana Benvegna, Fip Lazio member, won the “Absolute Gold” medal in the Cake Design Internationals in London.
Giuseppe Mancini with the Puglia team won the Italian Team Pastry and Cooking Championships in Carrara, with a creation in sugar, an assortment of mini pastries and pralines.
Antonella Cacossa and Monica Scafidi from Fip Piedmont won 1st and 2nd place respectively in the Cake Design competition in Asti.
New partnership with the Istituto Lioni Vanvitelli in Avellino.
New partnership with the Assfarm association for event organisation
The Federation at La Prova del Cuoco
Mario Ragona (FIP executive board) and Vincenzo Monaco (FIP Sicily), take part every Thursday in La Prova del Cuoco (the Italian equivalent ofthe BBC’s Ready Steady Cook, NdT.) on Rai 1, will take turns creating traditional recipes as representatives of the Federation.
Federation Pastry Chef courses
The Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate holds courses all year round, all over Italy, for professional chefs, covering a wide selection of topics: mini pastries, artistic sugar, family cakes, cake design, modern cakes and more. Detailed information about the courses can be found on the Federation website. Go to course calendar
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This number has been realized thanks to the collaboration of:
Francesca Romana Gaglione
The mission of the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream
and Chocolate is to form a capillary network of all the businesses
in the sector on a national and international level (schools,
wholesalers, associations, businesses, etc.). Its objective is to
promote collaboration and support growth in the sector,
offering visibility to artisan companies and local products.
To this end, the Federation organises professional training
courses, events and fairs.
To subscribe to the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream
and Chocolate download the registration form and follow the
instructions on the website:
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