Ice cream arouses happiness. You can see it in the people coming out of the city’s ice cream shops during this hot summer – children sinking into cones bigger than they are, elegant ladies with little plastic spoons who close their eyes as they savour their favourite flavour, grandparents with strawberry smudges on their hands, and couples and friends switching ice creams saying “mine is good, but let me try yours”. Everyone is smiling, enjoying that stolen moment of refreshing pleasure. This issue of Sweet Journal offers a “taste” of many treats, including raw food ice cream, ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, semifreddos, milkshakes and Sicilian granitas. A wealth of articles on ice cream to leisurely enjoy wherever you are, whether in the city, at the seaside or on top of a mountain. We hope you have a wonderful summer filled with delicious ice creams!
Gaia Passi
GROM
«Artisanal or not? The debate doesn’t concern us – quality is all that counts»
Is Grom ice cream artisanal or not? A debate among ice cream aficionados has spread to the press, social networks and food blogs in recent days, after CODACONS (TN: a consumer and environmental protection association) discredited Grom’s use of the word “artisanal” to describe its ice creams. The debate does not seem to interest the company’s owners, however. As Guido Martinetti sees it, “making the best ice cream possible, with only the finest ingredients” is what counts.
In recent years everything, or almost everything, has been said about them – some consider them to be the champions of Italian ice cream, while others have always criticized them for a wide variety of reasons.
Now Grom is caught in the eye of the storm once again – the cause is CODACONS’ decision to discredit the Piedmont-based company’s use of the word “artisanal” for its gelato. The reasons? CODACONS’ lawyer Enrico Venini explained to the Adnkronos press agency: «Firstly, because of the company’s size, since it is a Spa (a company limited by shares) it cannot be considered an artisanal business» (Ed. Note: Illy owns 5% of the company founded by Federico Grom and Guido Martinetti). Secondly, for its production methods: «In order to be artisanal, an ice cream must be freshly produced on site. In contrast, the company prepares the mixtures at a single production centre in the Province of Turin. From there, the ice cream is sent everywhere, to resellers in Italy and cities abroad, including New York, Tokyo, Paris, Osaka, and Malibu». This seems like a diatribe on semantics rather than a problem with quality. Since its creation in 2003, Grom has focused on fine ingredients, including protected designation of origin and Slow Food Presidia products, without using colorants, flavourings, preservatives or emulsifiers. We asked Guido Martinetti to sum up the situation.
Q&A 1-2/6
For some time, there has been a heated debate on the meaning of the word “artisanal”, which involves you directly. What is Grom’s position?
It is a debate that does not concern us since it is based largely on personal opinions. We strive to make the best ice cream possible every day, using only the finest ingredients. While “goodness” is subjective, the dream that drives me is to make an ice cream that is better than all the others.
They say that “anything can be forgiven in Italy except success”. Has that been the case for you?
Absolutely. I respect personal opinions, but the problem is when they deteriorate into gossip, fabrication and attempts to discredit. Rather than criticizing the work of others, we should all focus on doing our very best. In our case, the results speak for themselves – we have 64 shops, 700 employees (70% of whom are women) and are continuing to grow.
Q&A 3-4/6
Mura Mura is the organic farm that you created in 2007 to directly handle production of your raw materials. Have you succeeded?
We are now completely self-sufficient in the production of pears, apricots, peaches and white figs – for these flavours, Grom sorbets are made with fruit that comes directly from our trees. At the same time, we are experimenting with more than 100 types of plants like apple, lemon, cherry and plum trees, as well as strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and melons. For example, we produce 15 different varieties of strawberries each year and share knowledge with suppliers based on our results.
The flavours in your ice cream shops change frequently, you experiment with tastes a great deal. How are Grom flavours created?
I have always handled the recipes personally. My main focus is “clean” ice creams having a well-defined flavour, which are able to delight people with their simplicity. For the flavours of the month, on the other hand, I look to traditional Italian and French pastry-making for inspiration. In August, we will offer yogurt with granola, raisins and chopped almonds and peanuts. The flavour for September is based on Modena-style cassata (traditional dessert), made with sheep’s milk ricotta, candied sour cherries and chocolate.
Q&A 5-6/6
Grom has a strong presence at the Milan Expo, with a 250 m2 stand in a garden, an ice cream truck and the Sweet Bikes. How is this going?
The results are very positive. We are involved in many projects at the Expo, including holding ice cream-making classes in collaboration with Carpigiani Gelato University, introducing books with Bompiani and letting children discover the world of Mura Mura through games and workshops. Our most recent project is the boxed game “Grom, un mondo di gelati e di agricoltura” (Grom, a world of ice cream and farming), where children compete to make the world’s best ice cream.
What are your future projects?
The whole world lies in front of us. Good ice cream is almost non-existent in other countries – Italy is a unique, fortunate oasis. There is also a significant opportunity in the packaged ice cream sector – who says it cannot be made with high quality ingredients? It would be an opportunity lost if we did not conquer the market. Our dream is to be the ambassadors of Italian ice cream around the world.
Her motto is “an ice cream a day” – homemade or store-bought, on a stick or in a cone, in summer or winter… there are no rules, as long as it’s ice cream. Lidia Forlivesi, the creator of the blog Non Solo Food, welcomed us in her Milan loft, a place where every object has a story and a soul. She made two delicious milkshakes, a reminder of her time in New York, for Sweet Journal.
Sunny and inquisitive, Lidia loves to open her home to friends, as well as others – her social eating events are an opportunity to enjoy Sunday brunch or a hamburger with strangers who share her passion for good food. Because, in the end, the food is not everything: “the true pleasure is the company”.
Milkshakes for all tastes
Milkshakes are a delicious alternative to classic ice cream. Refreshing and sweet, they are ready in no time. Lidia’s two delicious recipes are: strawberry milkshake with chopped pistachios, ideal for a summer afternoon, and chocolate and banana milkshake with chopped hazelnuts.
by Lidia Forlivesi
Recipe
n° 1
Strawberry milkshake with chopped pistachios
Ingredients
200 g cream or vanilla ice cream (depending on preference)
100 g strawberries
30 g milk
0.25 l whipping cream
chopped pistachios as desired
Directions
First wash, cut and puree the strawberries. Then add the ice cream and milk and blend together until the desired consistency is achieved. Whip the cream and use a pastry bag or spoon to put it on top of the milkshake. Sprinkle chopped pistachios over the whipped cream. Serve with a straw immediately.
Chocolate and banana milkshake with chopped hazelnuts
Ingredients
200 g cream or vanilla ice cream (depending on preference)
1 banana
3 hazelnut chocolates
50 g milk
0.25 l whipping cream
chopped hazelnuts as desired
Directions
Cut the banana into slices, add the chocolates and milk and then blend together. Add the ice cream and blend until the desired consistency is achieved. Whip the cream and use a pastry bag or spoon to put it on top of the milkshake. Sprinkle chopped hazelnuts over the whipped cream. Serve with a straw immediately.
VITO CORTESE
Raw food ice cream
Grezzo Raw Chocolate in Rome is the first pastry shop in Europe to offer only raw food desserts. Including ice cream.
Now that “eating healthy” is the new categorical imperative, even ice cream is reaching new health frontiers. Raw food ice cream is one example and Grezzo Raw Chocolate in Rome is the only ice cream shop in Europe that makes it. What is it? Vito Cortese, who co-owns Grezzo with Nicola Salvi and is a student of Matthew Kenney (the international guru of gourmet raw food), explains: «Raw food ice cream is composed of natural, uncooked, whole, organic ingredients, without milk, gluten, eggs or refined sugars».
How do you make raw food ice cream?
The base of raw food ice cream is made with almond milk prepared each day in the shop from organic Sicilian almonds. The almonds are soaked and then blended and filtered. The milk that is obtained is not pasteurized, but must be used to make ice cream within 24 hours. Cashews (which contain good fats and 35% protein and are cholesterol free) and coconut meat are added to the almond milk to create the typical creaminess of traditional ice cream. Coconut sugar, which has a low glycaemic index and high vitamin content, is used as the sweetener. The ingredients that flavour the ice cream are then added to this base. Every day Grezzo offers about ten flavours, like raw chocolate (the shop’s forte) and bonet, inspired by a traditional dessert from Turin. There are also classics like hazelnut, pistachio and fruit flavours. The raw food ice creams are prepared with an energy-efficient traditional ice cream maker. Finally, the ice cream is served in biodegradable cups (the entire shop is built with recyclable and eco-sustainable materials). Cones and whipped cream are not available, however, since raw food versions do not yet exist. The price is slightly higher than a traditional ice cream (€ 3.00 for two scoops, as opposed to an average price of € 2.50). The price difference is justified by the high quality of the raw materials, which come exclusively from organic farmers and select producers.
Not just ice cream
Ice cream is just one of the many delicacies offered by Grezzo Raw Chocolate, where all the desserts are strictly raw. This means they are made without gluten, eggs, milk and milk derivatives, refined sugars, soya, artificial colourings and preservatives, leavening or chemical products. The shop offers Sacher torte and cheesecake, brownies and pies – great classics reinterpreted in raw versions and new creations invented each day from the pastry chef’s experience. The recipes are top secret.
Why raw food desserts?
«Raw foodism began as a therapeutic diet in the early 1900s. By leaving food products intact, we preserve the vitamins, minerals, enzymes and all the nutritional substances that are altered by cooking», explained Vito Cortese. «I firmly believe that raw food desserts may represent a turning point for the sector, since they are suitable for everyone, even people with food intolerances. The words “healthy”, “natural” and “nutritious” are increasingly overused and have lost their true meaning over the years. Through raw food desserts, we can rediscover the essence of flavour».
Nicolò Panciera with a cousin and his son Gino, Wien 1910
Zoldo Valley ice cream makers, Germany 1900
The history of ice cream
The long story of Italian artisanal ice cream
From Ancient Rome to the ice cream shops of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, learn how Italian artisanal ice cream conquered the world, transforming it from a luxury product into a treat for everyone.
For thousands of years, humans have sought refreshment during the hot summer months by drinking iced beverages. It was a pleasure reserved for emperors and sovereigns, because sending someone to collect pressed snow from the mountains required considerable financial means.
The origins of ice cream
In Ancient Rome, aristocrats had a custom of sipping beverages mixed with ice but, as the empire declined, such pleasant customs fell into oblivion.
Thousands of years ago in India, people learned how to produce cane sugar and, in 400 AD, a revolutionary discovery was made – the endothermic process. It involved causing a chemical/physical reaction by adding a salt to ice, which enabled the temperature of a liquid to be lowered to several degrees below zero. Oddly, this new invention did not reach Europe until the Renaissance, in 1500.
Meanwhile, beginning in 800 AD, Arabs located in various countries along the Mediterranean brought many new discoveries from India – precious cane sugar and “Sherbet”, the custom of drinking beverages mixed with snow and ice. Thanks to them, oranges, lemons and many other foods arrived from the Middle East. Thus, after the discovery of the endothermic process, “granita” – made with pressed snow from Etna and the juices of the newly imported fruits – was created in the noble residences and monasteries of Sicily. In Sardinia, the same process was used to prepare “sa carapigna”, a similar product.
by Donata Panciera
Procopio Coltelli, the father of Italian ice cream
In Paris in 1600, a young Sicilian from Palermo named Procopio Coltelli became the father of Italian ice cream, producing a product similar to the one we know today. An intrepid, ingenious, intelligent and fortunate man, Coltelli initially sold coffee – the new beverage of the century – in the markets, then opened a café that still exists.
He invented a unique system that we still use today with the help of electricity, transforming sugar-sweetened fruit juices from liquids into soft solids by creaming them in a space surrounded by ice and salt.
Thus, between coffees, the noblemen and wealthy people of the era could delight in an excellent sorbet at the Procope. This product remained an expensive, unusual luxury that was accessible only to the highest social classes.
The ice cream-makers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
During the 1800s, the Austro-Hungarian Empire occupied half of Europe and its population generally enjoyed a good income. After the end of the Republic of Venice, men who came from the cold Dolomites sought new occupations and began producing milk-based ice cream en masse, using techniques they had learned in noble Venetian residences. Through them, ice cream became accessible to common people. It was initially distributed by carts and then, beginning in 1845, at ice cream shops, which were immediately popular with the public. The basis of this success was a small, yet important detail – beginning in 1807, the French began to produce sugar industrially from beets, at prices much lower than the cane sugar that was imported from the Americas.
Ice cream finally became a treat for everyone.
Italian ice cream around the world
After the end of World War I, between the 1920s and 30s, in large cities like Milan, Rome, Naples and Palermo and in the holiday destinations, ice cream carts and ice cream shops with seating began to appear. Today, Italian artisanal ice cream has conquered Europe and the world. It is a pleasure we all enjoy from our earliest years, a delicacy but also a food we cannot do without. Making good, healthy, high-quality ice cream is a challenging art that, now as in the past, requires professionalism and love.
Grana Padano-flavoured ice cream
At the Milan Expo, not far from the Tree of Life and inside the Copargi (Confederation of Agricultural Producers) dome, Italian products from hundreds of companies are displayed with the brand Love it, Real Italian Food. Of course ice cream had to be represented, with exceptional ice cream created by Donata Panciera made with a variety of Italian agri-food products. On 25 June, Grana Padano-flavoured ice cream was served. Here is the recipe, taken from the book Il Gelato Artigianale Italiano Secondo Donata Panciera (Italian Artisanal Ice Cream According to Donata Panciera).
Recipe
n° 2
Grana Padano-flavoured ice cream
Ingredients
80 g finely grated Grana Padano cheese
100 g tepid milk
120 g sugar syrup
700 g white base (7% milk fat)
Directions
Take the finely grated Grana Padano cheese and dissolve it in 100 g of tepid milk. Blend well, adding the sugar syrup and finally the white base (7% milk fat). Mix it quickly, then cream.
Green tea and fresh peppermint ice cream
Green tea and peppermint are two delicious and original ingredients used to create an extraordinary ice cream. Cynthia Barcomi, a chef and pastry maker who is famous for her books and her establishments in Berlin, created this recipe for KitchenAid. Other sweet recipes are available on the KitchenAid Serious About Food blog.
Recipe
n° 3
gelato al tè verde con menta piperita fresca
Ingredients (per 1 litro circa di gelato)
400 ml milk
30 g green tea leaves
dash of sea salt
10 g (approx.) fresh peppermint leaves
4 egg yolks
175 g sugar
400 ml cream
Directions
First freeze the KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker according to instructions. Then, in a large saucepan, heat the milk almost to a boil. Remove from heat, add the green tea leaves and let them steep in the milk for 5 minutes. Pour through a fine sieve into a KitchenAid Blender. Add the peppermint leaves and blend.
In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar and a dash of salt for a few minutes until thick and light yellow. Add the hot milk gradually. Place the mixture back in the saucepan and whisk in the cream. Heat and continue to stir for about 10 minutes, until the cream thickens slightly. Do not let the mixture boil.
Pour the cream through a fine sieve into a medium bowl set inside a larger bowl filled with ice to quickly cool it. Stir occasionally.
When the cream has cooled completely, place it in the ice cream maker and let run for 20 minutes or longer, until it becomes thick and creamy.
Buontalenti ice cream
Bernardo Buontalenti, a famous sixteenth-century Florentine architect, sculptor and painter, is considered to be one of the “fathers” of ice cream.
A cooking enthusiast, Buontalenti was asked by the Medici family to organize entertainment for the Spanish ambassadors who were visiting Florence. He invented a cold cream made with milk, honey and egg yolks – the first ice cream. The original recipe for Buontalenti cream (now a registered trademark) can be tasted at Badiani ice cream shop in Florence (Viale dei Mille, 20r).
Cone or cup?
by Internoconcucina
This is the crucial decision we must make when, as we intently look at the flavours behind the glass, the attendant lets us know it is our turn. Not that we actually have to think about it – in reality we are divided into two different groups, two schools of thought, two philosophies.
The origins of “strolling ice cream”
The origin of the cone is disputed. Possible inventors range from Italian ice cream-makers who emigrated to the United States, Syrian pastry-makers and American peddlers. The most plausible inventor is Italo Marchionni from Belluno, who registered a US patent for a machine to make small wafer cups in 1903. While there were earlier attempts to make ice cream portable (glasses, porcelain cups, assorted dishware, paper and metal cones and even grape leaves), it was not until the invention of the ice cream cone that this delicacy became a treat to enjoy while strolling.
The ice cream “system”
Modern “strolling ice cream” involves a system, a group of related objects that all become a part of the ice cream ritual. It is a sort of takeaway tool kit composed of elements that are used in sequence. The wafer decorating the top, the scoop of ice cream, the cone that is eaten with the ice cream until all that remains is the cone, the napkin wrapped around the cone, which seems like an affectation at first but later becomes a useful tool for ending the ritual. The same is true for cups, with that colourful little thin plastic spoon having a special, unique design, which almost disappears in the cold mouthful of ice cream.
Ice cream accessories
There are various ice cream accessories available on the market: wafer cones of different textures, in small, medium, large and extra-large sizes (for large appetites or for sharing) and cups of different shapes and colours and even wafer cups (interesting but not very practical). Then there are the Italian croissants. Originally from Sicily, the ice cream sinks into their soft, spongy dough – it takes skill to eat them “properly”. Although sticks are normally associated with packaged desserts, they are also used in many artisanal versions of refreshing fruit ice lollies that are perfect for sticky summer days. A “strolling ice cream” is a small journey, a walk to be enjoyed alone or with a companion.
Ice cream from around the world
Exploring the pavillions of the Milan Expo
The Universal Exposition is an opportunity to discover the artisanal tradition of ice cream in the world’s different countries. From the “bruschetta tricolore” ice cream as a tribute to Italy to Baobab flavour ice cream at the Angolan Pavilion.
This trip through the Expo to discover ice creams from around the world must, of course, begin with Italy and, in particular, with Rigoletto artisanal ice cream in the Italian Pavilion. To celebrate Republic Day, Antonio Morgese created “Italian Pride Ice Cream”, a bruschetta (toast) with three original flavours that represent Italy from north to south: pesto, lardo di colonnata (cured pork product) and tomato. The ice cream was served on a slice of bread, garnished with a drizzle of oil – a true tribute to the tricolour flag.
For the Expo, Rigoletto developed the “Ice Creams of the Regions” project – for each Italian region, the most representative high-quality food products were selected and transformed into ice cream flavours. Throughout the entire duration of the Expo more than 30 flavours, developed by Morgese in collaboration with master ice cream-maker Sergio Colalucci, will be presented. In addition to classics like IGP Piedmont Hazelnut and Bronte Pistachio, there are unusual flavours like Abbiategrasso Gorgonzola with Ginger.
Searching for other “odd” flavours, we come across the popular vodka and berry ice cream in the Belarusian Pavilion. To celebrate Milk Day, Belarusia offered ice cream made with sour cream. Annalisa Cavaleri, author of the Gusto column in the Expo’s magazine, recommended the Colombian ice creams made with passion fruit, blackberry and mango. We should also mention the “suspicious” queues at the ice cream stands in the Israeli Pavilion – it is well worth the wait to try the ice cream, enjoying it seated at the long wooden tables or on the field in the picnic area. One of the many flavours to try is Israeli vanilla marbled with Silan (date syrup), with chopped hazelnuts.
But the real surprise comes in the Angolan Pavilion, with baobab flavoured ice cream from Chef Kitaba. The procedure to make it is very simple and can even be done at home – add water to the pulp of the fruit (called muqua) and work with a spatula, filter the mixture, add sugar to taste and put in the ice cream maker. The result is a creamy, delicate flavour with floral notes. Astonishing.
Expo-flavour
sorbet
Gelato Festival, the large touring event that brings Italian artisanal ice cream to major Italian and European cities, has created a flavour especially for the Universal Exposition, developed by technical directors Antonio Mezzalira and Giorgio Zanatta. Expo-flavour sorbet is inspired by the colours of the logo – a light refreshing and delicious water-based mango sorbet with kiwi and strawberry sauce. Expo-flavour sorbet is available at every stop of the Gelato Festival tour.
www.gelatofestival.it
Organic line:
delicious, authentic and simple artisanal ice cream
Fugar has launched a line of select ingredients for producing organic artisanal ice cream that meets the needs of consumers who are looking for guaranteed naturalness.
Through the intense efforts of the Fugar Research and Development lab, guided by the values of quality, artisanship, authenticity and excellence, a line of select compound ingredients for producing organic artisanal ice cream has taken shape.
Organic celebrates the products of the land and the work and wisdom of farmers. Organic is an ethical, sustainable choice that protects nature and animals, since it avoids chemical pesticides and fertilizers and GMO ingredients, respecting the entire ecosystem, its timeframes and its modes. Making organic ice cream therefore means producing in a manner that respects nature.
All of the products in the Fugar Organic Line are certified by the certification body CCPB srl for the entire production chain – from selection of the best raw materials to production, packaging and storage, every step conforms to Reg. EC 834/2007.
The Fugar Organic Line enables delicious, authentic and simple ice cream to be produced. The product range includes ice cream bases for fruit and cream flavours, 100% pure nut pastes (green pistachio, sweet round trilobed hazelnut and almond) made exclusively with Italian nuts, a select mixture of pure cocoa and different compound ingredients in powder form, to quickly make a wide range of ice cream flavours.
All Fugar organic products are free of hydrogenated fats, colourings and preservatives and are made with only natural flavourings.
Organic Goji Berry Sorbet
One of the most interesting flavours in the Fugar Organic Line is Organic Goji Berry – original and light, this milk-free flavour is made with 30% goji berries, known to all as the “longevity fruit”. This small, precious berry, known in Asia since ancient times, has countless beneficial properties – it strengthens the immune system, is a potent antioxidant, has a restorative-energizing effect and is suitable for reduced-calorie diets. Organic Goji Berry sorbet is a nutraceutical food with a fresh, appealingly light flavour and is ideal for vegans.
Recipe
n° 4
Organic Goji Berry Sorbet
Ingredients (for a tub of sorbet)
1.4 kg Organic Goji Berry compound ingredient
2.7 kg water
Directions
Use a mixer to combine a 1.4 kg bag with 2.7 kg of water and cream immediately. The sorbet is ready to serve.
vegan and lactose free
ice cream
by Marina Manieristi
Delicious, healthy ingredients to make an ice cream suitable for everyone – vegans and people with lactose intolerance no longer need to forego this treat.
I still have vivid memories of taking strolls on Sunday afternoons with my parents. When they asked me “What kind of ice cream do you want?”, my only response was “Big!”. Because there is nothing like a big cone to stimulate children’s desires.
No longer being able to eat ice cream is often the first concern of people who discover they have a milk intolerance. Our eating habits are inextricably tied to our memories – giving up something harmful to our health as adults is more difficult if the food reminds us of our childhood.
Fortunately the selection of industrial and artisanal ice cream alternatives is much broader than before. Some ice cream shops offer lactose-free products but care must be taken – milk intolerance is often caused by the milk protein casein, which is still present in lactose-free milk.
«the selection of industrial and artisanal ice cream alternatives is much broader than before»
To meet the needs of people with milk intolerance as well as vegans, we must use plant-based ingredients, which can easily compete with animal-based products.
First of all, excellent sorbets can be made with fresh fruit (a way to get children who do not like fruit to eat it). For example, if we blend strawberries, raspberries or cherries with sugar (without adding water) and put the mixture in an ice cream machine, we obtain a healthy, creamy product with an intense flavour. In addition, it is possible to use rice milk or soy milk (instead of cow’s milk). The problem with ice cream made without animal products is the lack of fat and cream, which give it creaminess. Alternative ingredients must therefore be chosen carefully. Ingredients that are very useful for this purpose are natural and fruit flavoured soy yogurt (with added fresh fruit) and dark chocolate (milk-free), which contains cocoa butter. Finally, nuts, which are rich in polyunsaturated oils (making them “good” fats), offer inspiration for a classic flavour – hazelnut ice cream.
Hazelnut ice cream
This recipe was created for vegans and people with lactose intolerance – a delicious variation of classic hazelnut ice cream, it can be made at home with the help of an ice cream maker.
Recipe
n° 5
Hazelnut ice cream for vegans and people with milk intolerance
Ingredients
70 g 100% pure hazelnut butter (available in organic food stores and some supermarkets)
200 g soy cream
200 g sugar
250 g hazelnut milk (hazelnut beverage)
1 egg (vegan variation: increase the soy cream by 50 g)
a dash of vanillin
Directions
First mix the hazelnut butter well so that the solid part combines with the oil, achieving a creamy consistency similar to a spread. Add the other ingredients and blend thoroughly. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and cream.
The ice cream diet
by Pietro Migliaccio
From an indulgence to a weight-loss ally – Pietro Migliaccio, nutritionist and president of the Italian Food Science Society, has created an ice cream-based diet. Healthy and delicious, it lets you lose 2 to 3 kilos in seven days.
«When the weather
is hot you want to
eat something cool»
A chocolate ice cream cone, an ice cream sandwich, a cup of ice cream with whipped cream, wafers, ice lollies and more. No, this is not paradise for sweet tooths, but a grocery list for an ice cream-based summer diet. Pietro Migliaccio, dietician, nutritionist and President of the Italian Food Science Society created the diet. «When the weather is hot you want to eat something cool – this is an appealing low-calorie diet that has all the necessary nutrients», he explained. By replacing one meal per day with ice cream, you can quickly lose two to three kilos.
With about 1200 calories per day, this ice cream diet is suitable for men and women 16 years of age and older, and can be followed in alternate weeks. It is not appropriate for diabetics, however. In addition, the diet is customizable – you can choose the flavours you prefer and whipped cream is even allowed.
Semifreddo: the perfect recipe
by Mario Ragona
Part ice cream part cake, semifreddo is a distinctive dessert. Knowing the ingredients is not enough – precise rules must be followed to make it. Some recommendations (and a recipe) from an expert pastry-maker follow.
Semifreddo is a dessert that is somewhat overlooked in dessert-making. Cool like ice cream, soft like a dessert eaten with a spoon, it is often confused with mousses and Bavarian creams. In fact, its characteristics make it unique in the dessert world.
Mario Ragona, a multi-award-winning pastry chef and co-founder of the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate, explains how to make a perfect semifreddo. «To achieve the best characteristics, this dessert must have 24% total sugars. In addition, no sheet gelatine or other thickeners should be used».
Let’s begin with the ingredients: «Only a few are needed, but they must be well balanced», explains Ragona.
«The base of the dessert is beaten eggs, either in the form of meringue (egg whites, water and sugar) or in the form of semifreddo base (egg yolks, water and sugar). The beaten eggs give the mixture lightness and are the basic ingredient for calculating the proportions».
Another key element is the half-whipped cream – with its fat content, it plays an important role in the structure of the semifreddo. «Half-whipping the cream serves to make it creamier, softer and more pleasing to the palate», reveals Mario Ragona. Then you need to choose the flavours (fruit, liqueurs, pastes or spices), according to your taste. Finally, don’t forget the most important ingredient – the cold temperature. «In contrast to traditional cakes, which are served at a temperature of +5°C, semifreddos are eaten at -8 to -16°C».
In dessert-making, there are three families of semifreddos, which differ in the ingredients used to make them:
Parfait: semifreddo base + flavouring + half-whipped cream;
Italian Semifreddo: pastry cream + Italian meringue + half-whipped cream;
Frozen biscuit: semifreddo base + Italian meringue + flavouring + half-whipped cream.
Strawberry and vanilla semifreddo
This recipe combines two different types of semifreddos, with strawberry semifreddo inside a vanilla frozen biscuit. Two moulds are therefore needed – one a bit larger as a final container and one a bit smaller for the inset part. This strawberry and vanilla semifreddo recipe was created for professionals, but can easily be made at home with a few changes, for example choosing a single flavour and eliminating the “spray mixture”.
Recipe
n° 6
Semifreddo fragole e vaniglia
Ingredients
For the strawberry semifreddo
300 g strawberry puree
300 g Italian meringue (water and sugar heated to 121°C, beaten together with egg whites)
400 g half-whipped cream
For the vanilla frozen biscuit
200 g semifreddo base (water and sugar heated to 121°C, beaten together with egg yolks)
130 g Italian meringue (water and sugar heated to 121°C, beaten together with egg whites)
670 g half-whipped cream
seeds of 1 vanilla bean
For the honey-flavoured soft biscuit
150 g sugar
60 g honey
150 g flour
For the spray mixture
100 g white chocolate at 35°C, filtered
100 g cocoa butter at 35°C, filtered
Directions
For the vanilla frozen biscuit - Mix the Italian meringue with the semifreddo base and then add the half-whipped cream flavoured with the vanilla bean.
For the strawberry semifreddo - Mix the strawberry puree with the Italian meringue and then add the half-whipped cream. Pour into the smaller mould and then cool in a blast chiller (if you do not have a blast chiller, place in the freezer).
For the honey-flavoured soft biscuit - Beat the egg, sugar and honey until a uniform mixture is formed, then mix in the flour. Spread a thin layer of the dough on a baking sheet covered with baking paper. Bake at 210°C for about 7 minutes.
For the spray mixture - Mix the white chocolate with the cocoa butter.
Assemble the dessert - Pour a portion of the vanilla semifreddo into the larger mould, filling it about halfway. Add the finished and frozen strawberry semifreddo. Add the remainder of the vanilla semifreddo. Place the honey-flavoured soft biscuit on top to create the base of the dessert. Cool in a blast chiller (if you do not have a blast chiller, place in the freezer). When the semifreddo reaches the desired temperature, remove from the mould and use a suitable compressor to apply the spray mixture. Decorate as desired.
The Pastry Chef
MARIO RAGONA
Mario Ragona is from Sicily, a region famous for its desserts. When he was 13 years old, he began working in the pastry shops of his town Partinico (in the Province of Palermo), where he fell in love with the sweetest profession in the world. He gained experience in Italy and abroad, working alongside the greatest master pastry chefs, and has been participating in international pastry-making competitions since 2007, receiving awards and recognition. He participates as a pastry chef on the television programme “La Prova del Cuoco” (Chef’s Challenge) on Rai 1. He is a co-founder and director of the International Federation of Pastry, Ice-Cream and Chocolate.
al d. mangiami
In Bergamo, the first Italian ice cream shop to use liquid nitrogen
The ice cream emerges from a white cloud. You taste it and it is not what you expect – there is something unusual about the consistency and taste. The flavour is intense and the sensation of coldness is stronger. Ice cream made with liquid nitrogen is a must-try experience.
The first Italian ice cream shop that uses liquid nitrogen opened in Bergamo last April. It is named al d. mangiami and was created by Marios Gerakis. A passionate and creative person, he is credited with having invented the first ice cream made with liquid nitrogen that can be stored – ideal for enjoying on a stroll, it can also be brought home. Every day, at al d. mangiami at Via Zambonate 51, customers can watch the “spectacle” of ice cream made with liquid nitrogen, which emerges from a white cloud as if by magic. Marios revealed to us all (or almost all) of the secrets to using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. He was accompanied by Davide Cassi, Professor of Materials Physics, Director of the Gastronomic Physics Laboratory at the University of Parma and teacher of Molecular Gastronomy at the ALMA Academy in Colorno.
Q&A 1-3/5
How do you make ice cream with liquid nitrogen?
M. Gerakis –It is truly an artisanal ice cream, meaning it is hand-made when ordered, with the help of a simple food processor (Ed. Note: al d. mangiami uses a KitchenAid food processor). The trick is balancing the speed of rotation of the processor and the speed with which the liquid nitrogen is added to the ingredients.
What ingredients are used?
M. Gerakis – The fruit sorbets have only three ingredients – fruit, sugar and water. The ice creams have five – milk, cream, powdered milk, sugar and the ingredient used for flavouring. No animal or plant proteins, synthetic or plant additives or fibres are added. For this reason it is a “pure” strawberry ice cream, not strawberry-flavoured ice cream.
What are the differences compared to traditional ice cream?
M. Gerakis – Most importantly it is creamier – liquid nitrogen is the most powerful way to cool foods (it has a temperature of 196°C below zero). It chills the ice cream very quickly and in such a way that no ice crystals form. Then there is the flavour – the liquid nitrogen heightens the flavours and ensures the quality of the ingredients, since it brings out both the merits and defects of the product. Finally, it reduces production costs. It uses fewer ingredients and does not require large machinery, reducing energy consumption, waste production and water consumption.
«Fruit, sugar
e H2O»
Q&A 4-5/5
Are there any dangers associated with liquid nitrogen?
D. Cassi – Nitrogen is an inert substance and therefore not dangerous. It evaporates completely and comprises 78% of the air that we breathe. Of course, it must be handled with care, since it can cause cold burns. It is also an oxygen-absorbing substance and can explode if it is kept under pressure – all of these hazards can easily be controlled by installing a suitable alarm system and storing the nitrogen properly.
What flavours can customers try at al d. mangiami?
M. Gerakis – The flavour for summer is refreshing and thirst-quenching peach and basil. However, with liquid nitrogen any ingredient can be made into an ice cream, for example beer and Gewürztraminer wine.
Havana Progressiòn Caffè
Sicilian pastry chef Santi Fabio Pacuvio has created for coffee-lovers a refreshing mousse served in a glass.
Recipe
n° 7
havana progressiòn caffè
Ingredients
For the coffee-flavoured streusel
200 g butter
200 g light brown sugar
70 g powdered Saronno almond macaroons
115 g flour (140 W)
7 g powdered cinnamon
1 g salt
cocoa butter as needed
Directions
Sift the powders and combine them with the other ingredients in a planetary mixer. Pass 2/3 of the mixture through a large-mesh sifter, place on an oven tray with silicone paper and bake at 180°C until it turns a nice hazelnut colour. Spray the streusel morsels with cocoa butter while they are still hot after removing them from the oven. Use chablon stencils to form the remainder of the dough into biscuits. Bake at 180°C.
For the English cream
500 g milk
140 g cream (35% fat)
240 g egg yolks
135 g sugar
seeds of 1 vanilla bean
Directions
Heat the ingredients to 82-84°C, pass the mixture through a chinois strainer (Ed. Note: strainer used to finely filter liquids), spread it on an oven tray and cover with food-safe plastic wrap. Chill immediately.
For the coffee-flavoured white mousse
900 g cream (35% fat)
385 g coffee beans
865 g English cream
115 g gelatine mass (200 Bloom) (Ed. Note: Bloom is a unit of measure to indicate the gelling power of gelatine)
Directions
Mix the coffee beans with the cream, letting them steep at least overnight. Filter then add more cream to reach the original weight (900 g). Add the English cream and melted gelatine and beat in a planetary mixer.
For the rum-flavoured gelatine
220 g sugar syrup (30°Bé) (Ed. Note: value that indicates the density of the solution)
95 g water
230 g rum (40 proof)
78 g gelatine mass (200 Bloom)
25 g coffee-flavoured chocolate pearls
Directions
Heat the syrup and water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add the gelatine mass. While cooling, add the rum and mix the two liquids.
For the coffee-flavoured icing
180 g cream (35% fat)
400 g white chocolate coating
25 g sugar syrup (30°Bé)
15 g soluble coffee
20 g glucose syrup
360 g neutral glaze
Directions
Heat the cream with the soluble coffee, glucose syrup and sugar syrup, bringing it just to a boil. Add the chocolate and work as though making a ganache. Add the neutral glaze with the help of a spatula. Cover with food-safe plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight at 4°C. Use at a temperature of 34-36°C.
Assemble the dessert
Pour the rum-flavoured gelatine into the bottom of the glasses and add a few coffee-flavoured chocolate pearls. Freeze. Add a little mousse then gently place a few morsels of streusel on top, making sure that they do not touch the walls of the glasses. Cover with coffee-flavoured white mousse then freeze. Ice and decorate with a streusel biscuit and coffee-flavoured chocolate pearls.
Granita siciliana
A breakfast of granita and a brioche is a Sicilian tradition – the sweet, refreshing and thirst-quenching granita goes perfectly with the soft, fragrant “brioscia col tuppo” (Sicilian brioche with a ball of dough on top). True blue Sicilian pastry chef Massimo Giambelluca reveals his recipe. His granitas are available at the Antica Pasticceria Giambelluca in Partinico, in the province of Palermo.
RECIPE
n° 8
Lemon granita
Ingredients (for 10 servings)
500 ml lemon juice
700 ml water
320 g sugar
grated peel of one lemon
Directions
Make the syrup by dissolving the castor sugar in slightly warm water and let cool. Add the lemon juice and peel to the cooled syrup and combine the two liquids. Place in a closed container in the freezer. After about an hour, mix with a fork so that the surface does not crystallize. Repeat the same procedure two more times.
Mulberry granita
Ingredients (for 12 servings)
700 g mulberries + 200 g for decoration
180 g sugar
400 ml water
juice of one lemon
Preparazione
Wash the mulberries under a gentle stream of water, let drain and pat dry with a paper towel. Remove the stems from the mulberries (it is better to wait until this point so that no juices are lost) then puree. Add the lemon juice and mix.
Pour the water in a small saucepan, add the sugar, let boil for 6 minutes over low heat and then cool for about an hour.
Mix the mulberries with the water and sugar syrup, place in a wide, low storage container with a cover and put in the freezer. After about an hour, gently mix two or three times so that the surface does not crystallize. Serve in a tall cup, decorate with the remaining mulberries and a sprinkle of sugar.
Sicilian brioche
Ingredients
400 g type “00” flour
190 g butter
75 g sugar
5 eggs
8 g salt
100 ml milk
12 g fresh yeast
1 vanilla bean
Preparazione
Sift the flour, place it in a planetary mixer fitted with a hook and add the sugar, salt and yeast previously dissolved in the milk. Turn on the machine and add the eggs, then add the butter gradually, waiting for each piece to dissolve.
When the dough is thoroughly mixed, put it in a bowl, cover it with a cloth and let rest for 2 hours. Then put it in the refrigerator for another 2 hours.
Form the dough into approximately 90 g balls and place another 20 g ball on top of each. Brush the surface of the dough with beaten egg yolk and cream. Let rise for about 20 minutes then bake the brioches at 190°C for 20 minutes. Serve the brioche with the granita.
Blond coffee
This recipe for frozen caramelized white chocolate mousse, by Sicilian pastry chef Mario Graditi, is intended for dessert professionals. It is a refreshing and astonishing dessert – a true explosion of flavours.
Recipe
n° 9
Blond coffee: frozen caramelized white chocolate mousse
Ingredients for 4 mousses with a diameter of 18 cm
For the caramelized white chocolate
250 g white chocolate
Directions
Heat the white chocolate in an oven at 120-130°C for about 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until browned.
For the Italian meringue with dextrose
140 g mineral water
450 g light brown sugar
240 g egg whites
120 g dextrose
Directions
Heat the brown sugar and water syrup to 121°C. Beat the egg whites, adding the dextrose only when the egg whites begin to foam. When the syrup reaches a temperature of 121°C, pour it into the egg whites and continue to beat until cool.
Important: For best results and to prevent the formation of macro-crystals in the mousse, the meringue should be at a temperature of about 20-25°C when used.
For the frozen caramelized chocolate mousse
250 g caramelized white chocolate
500 g half-whipped fresh cream (35% fat)
520 g Italian meringue with dextrose
Directions
Melt the caramelized chocolate at 45°C, add a portion of the half-whipped cream as if making ganache, then add the Italian meringue and finally the remaining half-whipped cream. The frozen mousse will be used to create the “lining” of the cake.
For the coffee, cocoa and ginger sorbet
600 g 50% sugar syrup
40 g cocoa with 22-24% cocoa butter
15 g freeze-dried coffee
5 g fresh grated ginger
295 g mineral water
45 g inulin
Directions
The sorbet should be placed in a mould with a smaller circumference since it will be used as an inset for the cake.
For the 50% sugar syrup
| Ingredients | grams | sugars | other solids | total solids | c.d | pac |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| water | 483,16 | |||||
| dextrose | 31,30 | 29,74 | 29,74 | 22,30 | 56,34 | |
| sucrose | 300,00 | 300,00 | 300,00 | 300,00 | 300,00 | |
| 25 DE glucose | 125,547 | 119,26 | 119,26 | 23,85 | 53,66 | |
| fruit base 50 | 60,00 | 51,00 | 6,00 | 57,00 | 35,73 | 90,00 |
| total | 1000,00 | 500,00 | 6,00 | 506,00 | 381,88 | 500,00 |
| percentage | 100,00 | 50,00 | 0,60 | 50,60 | 38,2 | 50,00 |
For the coating of the sorbet
250 g caramelized chocolate
50 g cocoa butter
Directions
Heat to 40°C and cover the coffee and ginger sorbet.
For the cocoa-flavoured soft biscuit
450 g egg whites
480 g dark brown sugar
300 g egg yolks
140 g cocoa with 22-24% cocoa butter
Directions
Beat the egg whites and, once foamy, add the sugar. Gradually add the egg yolks and continue to beat. Slowly blend in the cocoa with a soft spatula. Spread approximately 600 g of the mixture on a baking sheet and bake at 200-220°C for about 7-8 minutes, with the steam vent closed for the first 3 minutes.
For the dark chocolate shortcrust
160 g dark chocolate (70-80%)
180 g anhydrous butter at about 35°C
120 g dark brown sugar
100 g water at 35°C
460 g flour (150-160 W)
Directions
Heat the chocolate to 45°C and combine with the butter. Add the sugar and water and pour the mixture over the flour. Combine with a planetary mixer. Roll out between two sheets of baking paper and place in the freezer. Once cooled, make a circle 2 cm larger than the diameter of the dessert, and bake at 150°C for about 20 minutes with the steam vent open.
Shiny caramelized white chocolate icing
250 g milk
75 g condensed milk
100 g glucose syrup
430 g caramelized coating
10 g sheet gelatine
200 g cold unflavoured gelatine
Directions
Bring the milk, condensed milk and glucose syrup to a boil. Pour the boiling mixture over the caramelized coating. Add the sheet gelatine, then the cold unflavoured gelatine and mix for about 3 minutes without incorporating air. Use the following day by heating to about 28-30°C and stirring the mixture well.
Assembling the cake
Using an 18 cm ring, preferably lined with acetate film, insert a thin circle of cocoa-flavoured soft biscuit that is 16 cm in diameter. Use a pastry bag to make a base approximately 1.5 cm high of the frozen mousse. Cover the sorbet, which was previously placed in a 16 cm diameter mould, with the caramelized coating with a height of 1.5 cm, place it on the cocoa-flavoured soft biscuit and cool in a blast chiller for a few minutes. Place it inside the dessert, finish with frozen mousse and cool again in the blast chiller. Once the dessert is frozen, cover with caramelized icing and place the cake on a 20 cm diameter circle of chocolate shortcrust. Decorate as desired.
The Prison Ice Cream Shop
Due Palazzi Prison’s famous Pasticceria Giotto (Giotto Pastry Shop) has opened a new ice cream shop in central Padua. As of this year, the coop is also producing ice cream. We went to visit inmates who make ice cream, to listen to their stories and sample their best flavours.
Sometimes, ice cream can change a person’s life. This was the case for Francesco: «When I first arrived in prison 11 years ago, I didn’t know how to read or write. Now I have an accounting diploma and have become an ice-cream maker».
In the pastry kitchen at Due Palazzi Prison in Padua, Francesco makes 50 kilos of ice cream every day for the new ice cream shop at Via Eremitani, 1.
Francesco and Maurizio, Pasticceria Giotto’s two ice cream-makers, were trained by the greatest masters in the sector – Andrea Voltolina, a world champion pastry chef, and Stefano Marcazzan a master ice cream-maker from Carpigiani Gelato University. «Our ice creams are made in the traditional way using the finest local ingredients», explained Matteo Florean, manager of the prison bakery. «Thanks to collaboration with the agriculture association Coldiretti, we are working primarily with young farmers – the milk used to make our ice creams comes from a farm located 700 m from here. A large part of the fruit also comes from crops grown in southern Padua province and the hills». Sixteen flavours are available – we tried the freshly prepared strawberry, orange, fior di latte and chocolate, and the quality was truly excellent.
«Migliore Pasticceria
d’Italia 2013»
Pasticceria Giotto is a business unlike any other in Italy. The inmates receive nine months of training and are then hired with a national collective employment agreement. Elio, an inmate since 2008, stated: «Working in the bakery has dramatically changed my life. I never thought I had a choice between right and wrong. Now I have new prospects for the future».
«For inmates, work is a springboard for change. Inmates who work in prison have a recidivism (relapse of criminal behaviour) rate of 2-3%, compared to an average of 70-90%. Nevertheless, only 2,000 inmates out of 54,000 are employed in Italy» explained Nicola Boscoletto, President of the Giotto Cooperative. The coop employs approximately 120 inmates in the Padua prison (in addition to the bakery, there is also a call centre and a bicycle-building shop). «It is very difficult to replicate our system in other Italian prisons since the general cultural climate does not support initiatives of this type. Re-education activities are not always viewed in a positive light».
The Giotto Cooperative is currently planning to export its experience abroad – it is already working with Italian chef Bruno Abate in Chicago, to bring pastry-making to American prisons. In addition, potential projects in Lisbon, Venezuela, Brazil and Uganda are also being studied. Boscoletto concluded, «We don’t receive any special treatment in our work – we operate according to the rules of the market. We strive to create lasting partnerships with our customers and clients, partnerships that can offer both parties added value».
SNOW PICNIC
The ice cream ceremony
The ice cream shop that recently opened in the heart of Tokyo is anything but conventional – the minimalist yet elegant design evokes the atmosphere of a tea house. And the ice cream is a “performance”.
Snow Picnic is the king of experimentation. Each ice cream is prepared when it is ordered by pouring liquid nitrogen over concentrated liquid ice cream – white vapour spreads throughout the shop, enveloping customers and offering a spectacular performance.
Snow Picnic’s design, created by the Japanese Firm Torafu Architects, has nothing in common with a classic ice cream shop. Each element is designed to highlight the counter, the heart of the shop and the place where the liquid nitrogen performs its magic. A large window facing the street provides glimpses of the interior. The floor is on three levels of increasing heights made of different materials: linoleum, vintage tiles and laminate. Guests can choose where to sit, with options that include a large sofa, small wood tables suspended from the wall and a large table that runs the length of the space, surrounded by chairs of different styles and heights. The walls are painted in pastel shades of green and blue, which contrast with the black “service” areas (till, lavatories and back of the shop). The shop is decorated with green plants, paintings and wooden objects. The overall impression is one of being in a modern tea house where a new ritual takes place – the ice cream ceremony.
Snow Picnic, Nakano Tokyo, Giappone
DDmag for Sweet Journal
Fashion Ice Cream
Isabella Morseletto and Luisa Rasia are “two blond friends in search of beauty”. DDmag is a style journal with a unique twist – it discusses fashion, design, travel, hotels, celebrities and events, seen and told through their attentive, inquisitive eyes. Because everything can be beautiful and exciting, if you know how to look deeper. This column will help you discover the sweet side of style.
Ice cream is the perfect metaphor for summer – like two scoops that quickly disappear from the cup, the time to really enjoy the warm weather is short and cannot be wasted on mediocre tastes. We have a real sweet tooth for ice cream and decided to pay tribute to it with two stylish recipes.
Marco Baio, a stylist for Armani Privé and great aficionado of ice cream, provided inspiration and guidance. Marco created two fashion ice creams for us.
caramel
Ricotta, caramel, sweet oranges and hazelnuts – this delicious ice cream combines only the finest Italian ingredients. The result is an elegant and original flavour.
Recipe
n° 10
caramello
Ingredients
1 L white base (Ed. Note: one of the basic mixtures for making ice cream, composed of milk, fresh cream, sugar, dextrose and powdered milk)
400 g fresh ricotta cheese
60 g artisanal caramel
45 g sweet orange jam
candied chopped hazelnuts as desired
Directions
Prepare the white base, add the fresh ricotta and heat to 85°C. Let cool and cream. Make a first layer of white base, a thin layer of caramel and then a second layer of white base. Finish with a layer of orange jam and garnish with candied chopped hazelnuts.
salsedine
This ice cream gambles on the contrast between sweet and salty, providing an unforgettable taste experience.
Recipe
n° 11
Salsedine
Ingredients
1 L white base
0.5 L nougat cream
80 g Piedmont gianduia chocolate
80 g white chocolate cream
salted peanuts as desired
Directions
Prepare the white base, add the nougat cream and heat to 85°C. Let cool and cream. This will be the first layer. Add a layer of pure gianduia chocolate and high-quality peanuts, a layer of nougat and finish with a thin layer of white chocolate and peanuts.
Of course, both of the recipes have personal secrets which we cannot reveal. And if ice cream is dressed in style, we have another reason to become ice cream addicted!
Pastry-making and Cake Design World Championships
e Cake Design
Advance information from Federation management
From 24 to 27 October, the Pastry, Ice Cream, Chocolate and Cake Design world championships will be held at Host Fiera Milano, with the support of the Milan Expo. We requested advance information from the management of the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate (FIPGC), which is organizing the event.
The largest dessert event of the year is coming up soon – from 24 to 27 October, the best pastry-makers from around the world will compete at Host Fiera Milano for the Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate world cup and the Cake Design world cup. The theme of the Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate championship, scheduled for 24 and 25 October, will be “The Evolution of Technology”. Sixteen teams will compete in three different categories: chocolate and praline sculpture, sugar and modern cake sculpture, and pastillage sugar and single serving ice cream sculpture.
The Cake Design championship will follow on 26 and 27 October with the theme “Italian Art”. The 16 competitors will compete in the creation of a cake for public display, a cake for tasting and a display cake that is decorated live. While the teams train with their coaches, we asked the event organizers to provide us with some advance information. Let’s hear from Roberto Lestani, President of FIPGC, Mario Ragona and Gennaro Volpe.
Q&A 1-2/4
You chose two unusual themes for the event: “The Evolution of Technology” and “Italian Art”. How did the ideas arise?
R. Lestani – With “The Evolution of Technology” we wanted to touch upon a current topic that is of particular interest to younger generations. Young pastry-makers in the competition can fully express themselves by representing various aspects of technology, like social networks or new discoveries.
M. Ragona – The theme of “Italian Art” is a tribute to our country. In Italy, everything is art, from food to fashion, from literature to monuments. Each competitor can give his or her personal interpretation through cake design.
When judging a dessert, what are the most important aspects to evaluate?
R. Lestani – We must always evaluate both the aesthetics and the quality of the dessert, which is always more important. The flavour is crucial – we must remember that above all we are pastry-makers and must produce a good product. Next is the beauty of the artistic pieces, as well as the neatness and cleanness of the execution.
G. Volpe – Attention to every detail is essential to winning – the quality, flavour, pairings, aesthetic details and organization of the work are all considered. In addition, it is very important to follow the theme of the competition.
Q&A 3-4/4
Can you make a prediction about this championship? Is there a favourite team?
R. Lestani – In recent years the gaps between countries have closed dramatically. Today, thanks to globalization, anyone can upgrade their skills, study the most advanced techniques and achieve the highest levels of mastery. For this reason, it is impossible to make predictions – it will be a competition among equals.
M. Ragona – In the past, the strongest countries were the ones with deep-rooted traditions, like Italy, France, Belgium and Spain. Today, other countries cannot be underestimated – teams like Tunisia, Austria, Korea, Japan and many others have been gaining ground. We are expecting many surprises.
What is the strength of the Italian team?
R. Lestani – They are young and motivated and will have the fans on their side. But anything can happen in a competition – no matter how much you train, there are many variables in play. Training and enthusiasm are not enough – you also need a dash of luck.
M. Ragona – The Italian team has great potential. They must seek to bring their skills to the highest level, but a lot will depend on the other countries competing. Only at the end will the winning hand be revealed.
G. Volpe – Our team is a great group of young people who are training hard. In the end, however, the most deserving team will be the winner.
Ice Cream Chez Moi
Barbara Torresan
This book is simply delicious – with original, tasty recipes, and images so beautiful they seem to jump off the page.
Barbara Torresan – photographer, food stylist and writer – takes us on a tour of a frozen world made of ice cream, ice cream bars, sorbets, shakes and more. With a dash of shyness and a great deal of passion, she reveals her secrets for the best homemade ice cream you have ever tasted.
Q&A 1-4/7
A book devoted entirely to ice cream… why?
Because there was no book on the Italian market that was beautiful and full of ideas. And because ice cream has always been one of my favourite desserts. I remember that when I was on holiday as a girl, I always chose ice cream for dessert. It was always served in scoops, in those typical metal cups that are now such trendy vintage items. Always two scoops, strictly chocolate and pistachio. Or chocolate and lemon.
What is your favourite flavour?
Chocolate in general, and dark chocolate in particular. From my book, the “spice” flavour is my newest favourite. It stood out immediately due to its flavour, persistence and uniqueness. The idea came to me after tasting a cheese cake that I had made. With the kind help of my friend Sabrina, a pastry maker, the transition from cake to gelato was a quick one.
Cone or cup?
Cup, definitely, although I don’t dislike cones. I want to taste the flavour of the ice cream until the end. With ice cream in cones, the crunchy cone is inevitably the final flavour.
The key step for making ice cream at home?
The creaming. Whether done with an ice cream maker, a planetary mixer, a beater or by hand, it is essential. It makes the ice cream fluffy by incorporating air. It also avoids the formation of annoying micro-ice crystals and lends creaminess. Naturally very fresh, high quality ingredients must be used. Last but not least, patience and the necessary amount of time. Good ice cream must be pampered like a baby!
Q&A 5-7/7
In your opinion, what is the “new frontier” in ice cream?
I think they will search for new combinations that are as natural and healthy as possible. There will probably be a trend towards a dessert that is “less sweet”, using alternative sugars, and also a greater number of ice creams for vegans. A return to classic flavours would be nice, but with a focus on quality, origin and organic production. In short, ice cream that is better and healthier for everyone.
Is it possible to make vegan ice cream that is as good as classic ice cream?
I would say that with a bit of patience and special attention, good results are possible. The problem with vegan ice cream is the lack of roundness and “warmth” on the palate. Both of these come from the fat and protein found in classic ice cream. It should also be mentioned that sorbets and water-based fruit “ice creams” are excellent vegan ice cream alternatives. Also chocolate sorbet, which has a truly unique flavour. Finally, to make vegan ice creams creamier, there are a few natural ingredients that can be used, like inulin or carob flour, which help improve the lack of creaminess.
Three tips on must-visit ice cream shops?
My favourite ice cream shop is -16° Artigiani del Gelato in Lainate. The Gelateria della Musica in Milan is also outstanding. Finally, I have tasted incredible ice cream at the Laboratorio del Gelato in Viareggio in Tuscany.
la gelateria
della musica
Via Pestalozzi, 4
Via Abamonti, 2
Corso di Porta Ticinese, 1
Milano
La Gelateria
della Musica
«Our distinguishing feature is the ability to make an ice cream that is like a live concert played in a small establishment on the Navigli (canals in Milan)». One of the most popular places for ice cream in Milan, La Gelateria della Musica has just opened a third shop on Corso di Porta Ticinese. Must-try flavours include – butter and jam on bread and nutella on bread.
-16° Artigiani
del Gelato
Viale Rimembranze 14,
Lainate
Milano
-16°
In this small shop at the gates of Milan, former psychologist Sabrina Menozzi prepares old fashioned ice cream, using only natural, seasonal ingredients. Every day there is a new flavour to try, with novel and often astounding pairings, like pastiera (sweet pastry filled with ricotta cheese), chestnut cake, and cantucci (almond biscuits) with Vinsanto (type of dessert wine). There is also an ice cream specifically for dogs, created with the help of a veterinarian.
Laboratorio
del Gelato
Viale Ugo Foscolo 11
Viareggio
Laboratorio
del Gelato
Located near the sea, this ice cream shop continues to make traditional ice cream, while also experimenting. Don’t miss the all-fruit artisan ice lollies – watermelon, raspberry and passion fruit are the summer flavours.
Signature Tables
Setting tables with style, even for a snack
by Francesca Moscheni
Signature Tables
— Discover
A cup with a red handle, a porcelain stand, a houndstooth napkin, a silver teaspoon – every detail is important when setting a table. This is true even for a snack or breakfast, when sweets take centre stage. Tavole D’Autore, the new book by photographer Francesca Moscheni published by Bibliotheca Culinaria, shows tables set for any occasion by 14 Italian stylists. Behind each photo, there is a face, a story, a particular style of entertaining. Each table is a creative world that provides a source of inspiration..
Ice Cream
H. Douglas Goff, Richard W. Hartel - Springer
Ice Cream is a true “ice cream bible” for professionals. Published in the United States and now in its seventh edition, this manual uses a scientific approach to analyze all aspects of ice cream production. Topics include preparation techniques, choosing ingredients, the latest international research in the sector, the newest equipment and quality and safety regulations. Every aspect of the ice cream production chain is discussed and analyzed in great detail. In English.
Ice Creations
Christophe Declercq – Lannoo Publishers
This book is a collection of more than 60 signature frozen desserts – ice creams, sorbets, semifreddos, petits-fours, ice cream bars, ice cream sandwiches and more. Each recipe provides detailed information on the ingredients, as well as the formulas for ensuring a good balance. There is an interesting chapter on finishing techniques, including meringues, icings and coulis, marzipan, biscuits and chocolate. The book concludes with a selection of sauces and a short glossary. For professionals. In English.
ICE Kitchen 50 Lolly recipes
Cesar and Nadia Roden – Quadrille Publishing
ICE Kitchen, which opened in London in 2013, is the ice cream shop that launched the trend for artisanal ice lollies. In their first book, they offer many delicious recipes for learning the art of making ice lollies at home, using only natural ingredients and mixing classic flavours with new and original tastes. In English.
Dizionario di scienza e tecnologia del gelato artigianale
Luca Caviezel – Chiriotti Editori
(Dictionary of the Science and Technology of Artisanal Ice Cream)
Luca Caviezel is considered to be one of the grand masters of Italian artisanal ice cream and his books are milestones for people in the field. In this dictionary, Caviezel deals with all aspects of ice cream production – ingredients, kitchen tools, science and technology, from A to Z. A complete, practical guide for ice cream professionals. Available in Italian only.
GELATO FESTIVAL
-
ITALIA
gelato festival
The Gelato Festival is an important touring event appearing in 10 cities to celebrate the deliciousness of Italian ice cream. In each city, the best ice cream-makers compete with their tastiest flavours, which are voted on by a panel of non-experts and a technical panel of food experts. The final competition will be held in Florence on 1 – 4 October, where the Best Ice Cream-Maker in Europe 2015 will be crowned.
IBA
–
Munich, Germany
iba
The world leader in the dessert and bread sector, this show has offered a vast overview of new products since 1949. Participants ranging from small artisan businesses to large bread manufacturers and representatives of the desserts industry all gather here to present their products, including milk-based products, ice creams, frozen foods, semi-finished foods and ingredients for bread-making.
MIG
–
LONGARONE
mig
The MIG is the oldest ice cream show in Europe. Each year, it draws more than 30,000 ice cream makers and operators in the sector from around the globe to Longarone, which for a few days becomes the world capital of artisanal ice cream. The MIG features displays of all the most recent developments, including raw materials and ingredients, equipment and machinery, and furniture and services for ice cream shops. In addition, it has a full schedule of round-table discussions, international competitions, demonstrations and technical seminars.
News from the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate
2015 FIPGC World Championships sponsored by Expo
EXPO will be sponsoring the World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate and the Cake Designers World Championship organised by the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate at Host Fiera Milano from 23 to 27 October 2015
2016 FIPGC Championships
Registration is open for the 2016 FIPGC Italian Pastry Ice-Cream Chocolate Championships, which will be held at the Fiera del Tirreno in Massa from 28 February to 2 March 2016. The competition qualifies for the “Italian Selection” for “The World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate FIPGC”. The winners will represent the FIPGC Italian Team, who will compete at the The World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate FIPGC at Host Fiera Milano 2017 (Download the official regulations 2016)
Registration is open for the 2016 FIPGC Italian Cake Designers Championships, which will be held at the Fiera del Tirreno in Massa from 28 February to 2 March 2016. The competition qualifies for the “Italian Selection” for the “Cake Designers World Championship FIPGC”. The winners will represent the FIPGC Italian Team, who will compete at the Cake Designers World Championship FIPGC at Host Fiera Milano 2017 (Download the official regulations 2016)
The birth of the Tradition & Love FIP project
This project aims to gather all possible news about typical cakes and desserts from every region and province in Italy, a heritage that must be adequately protected and enhanced. (See the project page)
Prizes and awards
Katia Malizia, Fip Lazio member, won the gold medal in the Cake Design Internationals in London. Marilù Giarè won two silver medals in the same competition.
Tiziana Benvegna, Fip Lazio member, won the “Absolute Gold” medal in the Cake Design Internationals in London.
Giuseppe Mancini with the Puglia team won the Italian Team Pastry and Cooking Championships in Carrara, with a creation in sugar, an assortment of mini pastries and pralines.
Antonella Cacossa and Monica Scafidi from Fip Piedmont won 1st and 2nd place respectively in the Cake Design competition in Asti.
Partnerships
New partnership with the Istituto Lioni Vanvitelli in Avellino.
New partnership with the Assfarm association for event organisation
The Federation at La Prova del Cuoco
Mario Ragona (FIP executive board) and Vincenzo Monaco (FIP Sicily), take part every Thursday in La Prova del Cuoco (the Italian equivalent ofthe BBC’s Ready Steady Cook, NdT.) on Rai 1, will take turns creating traditional recipes as representatives of the Federation.
Federation Pastry Chef courses
The Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream and Chocolate holds courses all year round, all over Italy, for professional chefs, covering a wide selection of topics: mini pastries, artistic sugar, family cakes, cake design, modern cakes and more. Detailed information about the courses can be found on the Federation website. Go to course calendar
24 – 25 October 2015
The World Trophy of Pastry Ice Cream Chocolate
26 – 27 October 2015
Cake Designers World Championship
We would like to thank the press offices of:
Bibliotheca Culinaria, Chiriotti Editori, Expo, Gribaudo, Grom, Il Castello, Lannoo Publishers, Officina Giotto, Springer and Kitchenaid.
This issue was made possible thanks to the collaboration of:
DDMag
Massimo Giambelluca
Mario Graditi
Internoconcucina
Marina Manieristi
Fabio Pacuvio
Donata Panciera
Mario Ragona
Alba Russo
Cover:
Food Well Said
The mission of the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream
and Chocolate is to form a capillary network of all the businesses
in the sector on a national and international level (schools,
wholesalers, associations, businesses, etc.). Its objective is to
promote collaboration and support growth in the sector,
offering visibility to artisan companies and local products.
To this end, the Federation organises professional training
courses, events and fairs.
To subscribe to the International Federation of Pastry, Ice Cream
and Chocolate download the registration form and follow the
instructions on the website:
www.internationalfederationpastry.com
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